by Stephen Garner

Berluti is leaning into a more relaxed and casual approach for its new spring/summer 2022 ready-to-wear collection.

The Scritto motif, which has been fully enlarged, exemplifies this reinterpretation of the brand’s signature style. Originally hand-calligraphed on shoes and leather goods, it is now reproduced in giant format with silk inserts and embroidery stitches on nubuck jackets. It is also woven, knitted, or printed, sometimes on windbreakers, sweaters, shirts, or shorts. The motif becomes completely abstract and, at the same time, extends perfectly from the front to the back, along the collar or sleeves, thanks to millimeter-precise positioning and fitting techniques. It also features an all-over design, achieved with a new heat-sealed leather padding process, when it is not embroidered on the chest pocket of an over a jacket or a polo shirt.

Jackets have been stripped of their interfacing. The silhouette is supple and fluid, and the materials are comfortable and lightweight. Shirt-jackets with large patch pockets are paired with slightly baggy trousers to reinvent the suit. Trekking-style jackets in shearling, drawstring waist trousers, T-shirts slipped under shirt-jackets and drawstring parkas in laminated leather reiterate the laidback tone of this offering which also catches the eye with its intense colors – sienna, eggplant, or petrol, and softer grey and pastel shades that complement each other and accentuate the leather details and finishes.

The accessory lines have also been reinterpreted this season. In leather goods, Un jour and Toujours bags are available in patinas with a tie-and-dye effect, in green, blue, and camel colors, respectively named beetle green, sapphire blue, and duna. The Signature pattern canvas is transposed onto a herringbone weave, enhanced by Venezia leather finishes at the base, corners, and tabs of different bags. The emblematic leather of the brand has been reinvented for a more casual and supple look and feel, tanned and grainy, in four models – Late Hour briefcase, Late Hour shopper, Lat Hour backpack, and Late Hour pouch – which make up the Jour Softy line. Lastly, the Scritto motif is rewritten on jacquard canvas to echo the ready-to-wear line.

As for shoes, the Alessandro and Andy styles are redesigned with draped effects and patinas on the instep. The uppers of various models, both formal and casual, are decorated with stitching that is traditionally used for shoemaking and assembling soles. The Playtime and Fast Track sneakers also come in different leathers. A new line of ultra-comfortable shoes in very supple leather, like a second skin, makes its debut under the name Eden. Finally, the range of sandals has expanded, playing out multiple straps with different, very subtle patinas.