by Stephen Garner

Canali hosted the debut of its fall/winter 2020 collection at the Odeon Cinema in Florence during Pitti Uomo on Thursday. Attendees had the opportunity to see three distinct collections within the brand: Black Edition, Exclusive, and Canali 1934, with each segment containing a selection of formalwear, sportswear, and accessories.

The Black Edition is inspired by an urban, dynamic lifestyle manifested in exceptionally functional and versatile garments. The outerwear in this line comprises pocketable garments, items with removable layers and hoods, and oversized puffer jackets. The selection also includes hybrid pieces like a maxi-parka with an integrated backpack and multi-pocket vests inspired by utility-wear. Distinctive stylistic elements are conceived with blends of technical and natural fabrics. The result are poli-material garments that play with lime green, charcoal gray, and black through color-blocking and texture mix-and-matching. Style and performance merge together in an interpretation that draws directly from activewear, like rubber elements and heat-sealed seams. But more importantly; the knits, shirts, and outerwear are made with an ergonomic construction designed to follow the movement of the body and better define the silhouette. This fit also translates into the suits made of stretch-wool combined with a new form of canvas rendered in a technical material that creates a slim shape and increases the performance of the garment.

The Exclusive collection is the highest expression of Italian elegance displayed in sophisticated detailing, materials, and techniques. The garments blazers come with wide lapels and silk thread hand-embroidered buttonholes, while shoulder seams are made with a gathering method. The high-waisted trousers have a wider fit on the hips that fades at the bottom of the leg and is enhanced by double front pleats; this added to the wide waistband with double buttoning and buckle side-adjusters. The design is composed of clean lines that allow for a lighter construction and add emphasis to the quality and fluidity of the fabrics, showcasing a unique softness and shine.

And, the Canali 1934 line reinterprets the iconic garments of the male wardrobe and the traditional patterns of the brand’s sartorial heritage such as Damier, Prince of Wales, and Birdseye. Shimmering and frosted effects on wool flannels, wool-silk bouclés, and wool-cashmere blends bring added flair to the outerwear. The winter camel coat is available as a single-breasted item with wide patch pockets or as a double-breasted robe coat with wide lapels. The fit of the blazers is designed for dynamic comfort both in the classic tailored pieces – deconstructed with lightened compositions – and in their wool jersey counterparts. A section of the collection is dedicated to the return of the raincoat, with three models offered and in a combination of classic elements with contemporary details: a trench coat in a luminous fabric with leather inserts, a coat in cotton gabardine with a detachable padded interior, and finally a winter car coat with velvet details.