by Stephen Garner

Dior Men’s took its fall 2020 show on the road to Miami this season, choosing to show the labels latest wares on the eve of Art Basel.

Artistic director Kim Jones found inspiration this season from Dior’s founding principles of youth, vitality, and the spirit of the new. In this spirit, Jones’s show was being held directly across the street from the Rubell Museum. This venue was chosen as an ode to Mr. Dior’s first vocation as a gallerist before he became a couturier.

The art world link continues in the collection itself, through Jones’s invitation to the artist and designer Shawn Stussy. Positioned at the intersection of counterculture and the creative world of surfing, Stussy reimagined the Dior logo in a graffiti style and created new prints. His vision is also interpreted in jewelry by Yoon Ahn. Stussy also conceived an immersive installation with the show’s scenography plunging the audience into the artist’s universe. The runway was transformed into an abstract barrel wave lit by a sunset and tagged with myriad iterations of the letters in “Dior”.

Embroidery, beading, and tailoring combined with psychedelic elements were the common themes this season Fluid jackets in tropical wools sport hand-stitched buttons, reminiscent of the original bar suit, an icon of Dior’s “new look”, while a limited-edition metal version of the saddle bag is also revealed.

French berets and bob hats in the style of those worn by sailors, designed by Stephen Jones, Dior’s milliner, are embellished with flamboyant sprigs of flowers. Floral motifs, python prints, checks, and stripes punctuate the collection, inventing unexpected harmonies and combining with the signature Dior oblique motif.

Intense, bright colors – hibiscus red, pacific blue, saffron, and pastel shades – reflect the art deco architecture of Miami Beach. An echo of Dior’s ball gowns, this palette delicately informs the collection, notably by blending a tutti-frutti motif with the Dior oblique canvas on new accessories.

As part of the Dior Men’s fall 2020 collection, the brand partnered with the Jordan brand on a limited-edition iteration of the Air Jordan I sneaker. This is the first-ever collaboration between the Jordan brand and a Parisian haute couture house.


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