Ermenegildo zegna xxx refines its tailoring for fall 2020

by Stephen Garner

Ermenegildo Zegna XXX held its fall/winter 2020 fashion show inside a former Milanese foundry in collaboration with multi-media American artist Anne Patterson on Friday. Patterson’s installation, made of thousands of ribbons derived from leftover Zegna fabrics with a massive suspended cube, served as the centerpiece and backdrop this season.

Zegna’s sartorial know-how is being further explored by artistic director Alessandro Sartori this season. The collection features three-button suits that are slightly boxy, one-breast-and-a-half jackets and tapered trousers worn under puffy blousons; zip-up overshirts with low collar lines replace traditional shirting. The tailored waistcoat/vest makes a comeback, to be worn with or without the suit. Wraparound belted blazers, voluminous coats with deep back pleats, coat/parka fusions, shirts that double as short-sleeved blousons also make an appearance.

Accessories include bold-soled, polished boots and derbies, oversized bum-bags, and soft bags. The newest bag, dubbed the Insta-Pack, is a functional crossbody inspired by photographers’ bags and features sartorial details and a Zegna vintage logo from 1980 created by the graphic designer Bob Noorda.

This season also saw the brand’s partnership with Leica on an array of camera bags, holders & straps that is part of a broader dialogue that will further evolve into a photographic project aimed at portraying modern masculinity through women’s eyes later this year.

“At Zegna, I have the privilege to experiment at every level, from the mix of fibers to the evolved tailoring shapes,” said Sartori. “It is all about reshuffling or hybridizing categories, breaking boundaries in order to explore new territories: this is our new tailoring lexicon. One experimentation leads to the next, in one seamless dialogue, always keeping in mind that our art should always respect the earth. That’s our mission, as both humans and fashion-makers.”