by Stephen Garner

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake premiered its spring/summer 2022 collection, called “Human Ensemble” on Thursday as part of Paris Fashion Week Men’s. The collection looks at the human body as it is constructed, and integrates elements inspired by the body’s form, movement, and complexion into the design. Based on the brand’s concept of clothing made for everyday living, the collection engages with the strength and beauty of the human body to explore original ensembles in harmony with their wearer.

The brand debuted its newest collection with a video directed by Kazunali Tajima seeking to express a sense of diversity and universality in the clothing defined by the wearer’s personalities. The video lent itself to the faithful presentation of the clothing’s texture, where the cast of thirty from a variety of backgrounds, including business, education, architecture, music, and art, were featured in an authentic way. Each wearer’s countenance and presence, clearly shown under the rotating light, demonstrates the notion that there is something intrinsic about a piece of clothing’s expression that can only be completed by its wearer.

Highlights from the new collection include the “Body Arch” series made from 100 percent recycled polyester yarn. It outlines the human body and comes in an array of colors inspired by natural skin tones. The curved folds in the pants intersect the straight pleated lines to bring forward qualities of three-dimensional construction. The design of the Raglan sleeves on the back of the jacket allows for easy movement.

This season’s “Oblique” series, made from 100 percent recycled polyester yarn, and features bold, diagonal lines across the pleats, is also a standout. The garments in this series are designed and sewn in a particular way that makes the oblique creases more conspicuous, adding a sense of rigidness to the soft fabric.

And, don’t miss the “Body Movement” print series, which portrays the human body in multiple curves over a background drawn with paint and sand. Every time the wearer moves, the sandy texture in the strokes and suppleness in the curves become more lively. The series is available in a jacket, long jacket, vest, and pant style.

The new “Inlaid Knit” series is made from 100 percent recycled polyester yarn and uses a seamless knit technology, which contributes to its minimal design. The silhouettes are more distinct and the texture is clearer. This series is available in a jacket and short pant style.

Plus, the “Leno Stripe” series features a vertical stripe pattern made with the traditional technique called karamiori (leno weave). It is a woven textile in which two warp threads are twisted around one weft thread, creating a net-like structure that breathes well. The pleating further brings out the textural qualities of the stripe pattern. This series is available in four styles, including a new vest with interior pockets.

And, the “Stretch Shirt” series integrates the characteristics of an elastic fabric that is smooth to the touch and whose gentle sheen and depth of color add to its subtlety. The elasticity lends itself to the raglan sleeve design, making the garments easier to move in.

Finally, the “Deck’n Court” shoe is the fourth series of the footwear project between Homme Plissé Issey Miyake and Wakouwa. It introduces a new style of low-cut sneakers in mismatched, color-blocked combinations, whose bright colors are framed by white piping.