HOMME PLISSE ISSEY MIYAKE DEBUTS FALL ’21 LINE

by Stephen Garner

Issey Miyake debuted its fall/winter Homme Plissé collection on Thursday online as part of Paris Fashion Week Men’s.

The collection, called “Never Change, Ever Change,” was shown via a video, which started with a scene of pleating a garment, the process from which the brand’s creations originate, followed by a series of sartorial operations carried out by skilled engineers and craftspeople working at the atelier. Models in monochrome outfits walked around and marched through the space, as the music made from sampling the machinery marked the pace of their moves, quick and slow.

The second half of the video opened again with the pleating machine. As the uplifting tunes progressed, the engineer peeled off the paper to reveal items of clothing one after another. Now models in colorful outfits stood on a rotating platform, and in still postures, presented an array of looks from the collection, followed by scenes of them walking, playing, and dancing. Then, they gathered around the platform and lined up in a circle, revealing a gradation of colors of the collection, until they each walked towards the camera and off the screen.

The collection itself looked at classic and conventional clothing styles from a modern perspective. By integrating original ideas and new technology into them, the collection defined what will be the new basics of the brand. This collection embodies the brand’s intent to evolve, while always staying true to its approach to design and making, as it continues to produce clothing that reflects our changing lifestyles.

The brand also introduced its first series using 100 percent recycled polyester fabric. It has the same finish and texture as the original fabric, available in ink-black this season for easy mixing and matching, and in five styles including the standard pants (the style pleated around the waist and hem) with pleated front detail.

Homme Plissé also introduces the “Basket” print this season, which features hand-drawn motifs of African-inspired baskets. The brushstrokes of the print depict the quality of hand-woven baskets, giving the garments a lively impression as they move.

The “Tailored Pleats” collection is one of the brand’s standard series featuring pleated jersey fabric in sharp silhouettes, this season, it introduced new styles such as a slim, short-length jacket and pants integrated with a waist apron, available in an understated color palette.

The brand also reveals its first pleated series that uses fabric woven with yarn-dyed polyester threads. The fabric is warm like wool, but is lighter in weight and wrinkle-resistant, available in classic styles refined to a simple, modern cut.