LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN PT 1

by William Buckley

As always, the fall/winter market kicked off in London first, with four days of ‘catwalk’ shows, presentations, and myriad events. So packed was the schedule, that little time was left for superfluous stuff like breakfast or lunch, and this season it seemed as is if some spiteful fashion spirit scattered the locations to the four corners of England’s capital, so getting from one thing to the next would’ve been impossible if not for that oft-villified but so essential service, Uber. Although even Uber couldn’t always cut it: a mad dash from Duchamp at Rosewood London to Moschino at One Mayfair, and stuck in Westend traffic with 10 minutes to show time, I had to abort Uber and duck into Tottenham Court Road station for the Central Line train to Bond Street. Without Google Maps, GPS and second by second updates to the journey planner, I might’ve missed it, but thank Google I got there just in time. Unfortunately as I ran up the escalator, camera in hand, and shouted at two soccer fans to ‘excuse me!’ I tripped up the ascending stairs and cracked the UV screen on my camera’s lens. I swore. They laughed. My knee got a good scraping, but I staggered on. And it was worth it. But that was Day 3, and this is part one, so Moschino pictures to be posted on Thursday. Day One’s highlights, beyond the non-stop bustle, included Topman, who opened the show and presented Gordon’s fashion forward vision, with lots of nods to the past, particularly the 70s, with ‘Flower Power’ florals and flares.

Barbour’s presentation was concise, and the clothing was strong. No surprise that the outerwear pieces in particular were as excellent as ever, and you can see the best images from the collection in our February issue’s outerwear feature.

British concept-led label Cottweiler’s sportswear collection combined tech fabrics with knits and shearling, and looked a little like Children of the Corn. Always fun.

Savile Row’s Hardy Amies showed typically strong tailored clothing and updated classics like cashmere overcoats. Clean, simple, but contemporary, with tailored cargo pants a standout, and tuxedos in cognac and burgundy.

What for me was his most exciting collection yet, Matthew Miller’s ‘Nouveau Riche’ theme was realized through a combination of tailored jackets and overcoats with graphics from Carravagio’s David and Goliath, which was painted in oil on canvas on select pieces.

Finally, Thomas Pink’s presentation, which took place on the Mall that leads along St James’ Park to Buckingham Palace, was electric. Florence Torrens, creative director, was inspired by the block colors used in the buildings of Mexican architect Luis Barragan. The clothing took coloring from some of Barragan’s most popular work, and the backdrops at the presentation echoed those colors.

The gin and tonics were also exceptional.