by Stephen Garner

Escapism has always been part of Martin Asbjørn’s DNA-and this remains true for his autumn/winter ‘21 collection. Building on the developments of the past seasons, it plays to the designer’s strengths and remains true to his vision, featuring signature ‘70s vibes but this time infused with the positive energy of ‘90s house music and Europop. The result is upbeat, positive, and eternally optimistic.

A bold sense of color is a distinctive feature of the Martin Asbjørn aesthetic and this season is no exception. Buoyant shades of sky blue, orange, and pale pink offer bright punctuations when set against black, navy, and sugar brown. Fabrics have weight and texture to bring a more autumnal feel to silhouettes that look forward to the ease of the approaching springtime.  Attention has also been paid to sustainability with much use of surplus fabrics, organic cotton, and recycled polyester.

Tailoring plays a central role this season with drapey jackets and pants in pale blue and pink or deep army green. Boxy textured wool-blend blazers pop in sky blue and orange or become even more elegant in a black alpaca mix, especially when topped with a belted woolen trench-coat.  Leather – always a Martin Asbjørn highlight – appears in a luxurious double-faced lambskin coat, jacket, and pants whilst a faux ocelot print shearling coat adds some ‘70s disco drama.

Underneath, a second-skin jacquard jersey gives some sex-appeal and crushed velvet shirts add a touch of decadent chic.  And for more casual days, a workwear cotton canvas translated into flared pants or a jumpsuit keeps the atmosphere relaxed but still utterly cool.

A sexual energy always exists in the house style, but this time erotica is given an unexpectedly innocent twist with anime-inspired prints created in an exclusive collaboration with Chilean tattoo artist Cristian Garcia.  Fresh-faced yet seductive and knowing, the boys in the designs know that better days are indeed on the way.