by Stephen Garner

The men’s fall/winter 2019 Missoni collection masterfully captures the stylistic and cultural reverberations of an iconic era through the gaze of a contemporary lens. Angela Missoni continues to explore and draw inspiration from the international art scene.

Ensembles created for the pleasure-seeking jet set, this sartorial collection reconstructs classic pieces with a minimalist sensibility, the Missoni finesse and a dash of effortless cool. Structured silhouettes are narrow and elongated as they softly trace the body. A refined color palette of soft gradients enchants as shades of camel fluidly morph into ochre; crimson red into bright orange; deep wine into electric blue; and ink blue into turquoise.

This season’s foray into evening wear pairs tuxedos in woven or lame flecked loom-knit fabrics with bib-front shirting in lamé that beckon the glamour of the ’70s, while thin plissé knit scarves inject a touch of continental flair. The offering is further enhanced by smartly tailored pieces such as long blazers and high-waisted, tapered trousers in loom-knit fabrics; dégradé blazers and trousers in compact jacquard-knit fabrics; and belted double-breasted coats and reversible caban coats backed in soft felted wool.

Luxuriously soft knitwear in cashmere, mohair and fleecy wool envelop the body in warmth and form. Chunky bombers with velvet collars; reversible dégradé cardigans and crewnecks; and shawl collar and roll-neck sweaters become the staples and layering pieces of the chicly informal Missoni man.

The parallels between Missoni’s heritage and contemporary artist Anton Alvarez—whose creativity reflects a process that oscillates between tradition and innovation—have given rise to a collaborative force this season. The artist’s eclectic use of color and material inspired the designs of two distinctive cable knits: dégradé sweaters flecked with mohair to create abstract motifs and handmade roll-necks with whirling relief patterns that have been embroidered by hand. Each unique piece presents a dynamic interplay of pattern and texture, reinterpreting the sinuous whorls and undulations of his sculptural forms.