by Stephen Garner

Missoni unveiled its autumn/winter 2020 menswear collection at its showroom on Sunday night as part of men’s fashion week in Milan.

Taking cues from the evolving jazz scenes of the ‘70s and ‘80s, the collection comprises varying textures, volumes, patterns and color. This season epitomizes the rhythmic diversity of the music of the times in contemporary form, creating a uniquely improvised style that is cool, intense and expansive.

Soft and delicate cashmere and cashmere-silk blends combine with alpaca, mohair, felted wool, brushed cotton, and lamé blends to form an ensemble of sharp, modernist cuts and voluminous, oversized silhouettes. Vibrant color palettes in midnight blue and jade green, burnt amber and black, dark bordeaux and military green are bolstered by pops of agate yellow, powder pink, and electric blue.

This season places an emphasis on voluminous, light and airy knitwear that feels more like outerwear pieces, with shawl-collar cardigans and bombers in animalesque patterns and patchwork-like jacquards or heritage multi-stitch jacquards from the Missoni archives. Other key pieces include an oversized, softly-tailored, double-breasted coat in embroidered felted wool or backed loom-knit fabric; a caban coat with shearling shawl collar in a backed loom-knit fabric; a bomber in nappa leather with loom-knit inserts in lamé; a reversible car coat in a cotton and wool blend together with a viscose twill jacquard pattern that creates an ikat effect; a reversible hooded blouson; and shirting made in an exclusive cashmere pashmina fabric.

Generously-cut, over-dyed trousers are inspired by loose-fitting military trousers and created in a patchwork of varying stitches. A slick Chelsea boot and a revamped military boot, both in richly colorful exotic leathers, add that final touch.