by William Buckley


Always a firm favorite, the Robert Geller show this season did not disappoint. There was firm look forward with more roomy pants and statement outerwear, and that standout signature from SS16, the belted cummerbund, was re-imagined for FW in suede and leather. Replacing the sailcloth sacks were purple briefcases, and the continuing collaboration with Common Projects that gave us Geller Mary Jane’s last season, gave us low-heeled suede Chelsea boots.

The first looks were dark with something of the Gothic, and progressed through monochromatic muted beige looks to unusual shades of pink, orange, and yellow. Geller’s color choices are always slightly apart from anything that feels too familiar, almost as if you’re seeing the colors for the first time. His collection is one of the few in New York that could show in London or Paris, such is his unabashed creativity, without the sometimes seemingly corseting concern with the ‘commercial’ that is such a deeply seated part of American culture.

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