by John Russel Jones

Start the clock, gente, Pitti Uomo is January 10th to 13th, 2023, returning to the Fortezza da Basso in Florence, Italy for its 103rd edition. The premier menswear affair of the season hosted a luncheon in New York City last week, officially kicking off the Fall/Winter 2023/24 season while announcing its roster of events for the show. This year’s itinerary includes I Go Out, a section dedicated to the world of experimental outdoor clothing, as well as the Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling and S|Style, focused on sustainable style. Two brand new areas include Pittipets and The Sign, which expands the exhibition spaces of the event, enriching it with new contents.

The general theme for the season is “Pittiway,” representing a compass for new directions in the menswear business, so watch for routes, turn signals curves, and U-turns in the Fortezza.

The guest designer this season is Anglo-Jamaican Martine Rose, who will premier her FW 2023-24 on January 12th, with a special event in a yet-to-be-revealed location. On Wednesday, January 11th, Belgian designer Jan-Jan Van Essche for the Designer Project, a unique event.

Special events also include the designer Pierre-Louis Masica presenting Philocalie, an experiential installation at Palazzo Antinori on January 11th. Palazzo Finlandese presents Vain, an interdisciplinary project launched by artist and creative director Jimi Vain in Helsinki, a testament to what it means to be creative in the digital age.

Other highlights include:

  • Bikkembergs: previewing new concept stores, licenses, and partners in the Sala della Volta
  • Ecoalf: A new collection made up of 60% single-material fabrics, allowing clothes to be easily recycled
  • Holubar: celebrating the 75th anniversary of the outdoor brand with three special collaborations with Nigel Cabourn, Denham, and Vibram
  • Piquadro: launching an outerwear collection that is functional, technical, and comfortable, created by Israeli art director Yossi Cohen
  • Windsor: A new Berlin-inspired collection from the 130-year-old Swiss brand Windsor features a recycled cashmere capsule

Returning brands to Pitti this year include Altea, Begg & Co., Gloverall, Edward Green, Heschung, Hestra, Hettabretz, Inis Meáin, Mey Story, Rossignol, Tricker’s, and Yves Salomon.

And Pitti is, of course, not only Italian. International collaborations this year include:

  • Scandanavian Manifesto
    An exhibition of the most innovative Nordic fashion from Denmark, Sweden, and Norway, a partnership between Pitti Uomo and Revolver Copenhagen.
  • J∞Quality Factory Brand Project
    Yuya Nakata of Postelegant is the design director of a project assembling eleven JQuality manufacturers (meeting the high-standards of Japanese production techniques) in the Futuro Machile section presenting garments designed to go beyond the concept of time.

Pitti Connect
Pitti will also present a series of online events, formats, and projects, called The Billboard, maximizing exhibitors’ presentations and initiatives, at

ABOVE: Photo by Efrem Efre.