Ralph lauren introduces 25th anniversary purple label collection in milan

by Stephen Garner

In celebration of the 25th Anniversary of Ralph Lauren Purple Label, the brand looks to its most iconic references and collections for fall 2020.

The 25th Anniversary collection is headlined by a reissued capsule of tailored looks from the ’90s inspired by Mr. Lauren’s personal suitings and his love of sartorial English tailoring. These pieces feature his signature suit silhouette: strong, broad-shouldered with wide lapels balanced by a contoured waist, shorter length, and lower button stance. The new Ralph Suits are recreated in the original English fabrics and patterns, hand-picked and styled by Mr. Lauren exactly the way he would wear them, in pattern-on-pattern combinations of classic chalk-stripes, houndstooths, and glen plaids and a range of sophisticated heathers and solid blacks.

“I’ve always believed in the art of fine tailoring,” said Mr. Lauren. “Before I started my own company I had my suits custom- made. I wanted the fit and construction to have the integrity of old-world craftsmanship yet remain soft and supple, natural and comfortable. For Purple Label’s 25th anniversary, I wanted to recreate that tailored style I’ve always believed in – from the cut of the suit and the original fabrics to the mix of patterns in the shirt, the tie, and other accessories. Purple Label to me is more than just beautiful clothing, it reflects the personal style of the wearer and a way of living inspired by timeless quality.”

The collection’s eveningwear offering transforms the tuxedo into an array of silhouettes from the Ralph Lauren archive: a new take on the white-tie tailcoat of the 1920s and ’30s, engineered to elongate the line of the leg; a military officer-inspired coat featuring regal embroidery; a double-breasted peak-lapel jacket cut in the plushest black velvet; and classic single-breasted tuxedos that form the pillar of formal luxury attire.

Sportswear for fall seamlessly blends with tailoring in a rich palette of charcoal, brown, navy, and olive, each rendered in supple suedes, velvets, and exotic leathers to mix with varying weights of Italian wool and super-soft cashmere. Drawing inspiration from Mr. Lauren’s personal car and motorcycle collection, the bespoke looks are layered in coordinating combinations of rich texture and tone, featuring a mix of plaids, windowpanes, and herringbone patterns, embracing the monochromatic elegance signature to the brand.

Relaxed silhouettes are detailed with sharp suiting elements, such as flapped chest pockets, pleats, belted backs, and throat latches. Novelty details, including printed velvet and bullion embroidery, nod to some of Ralph Lauren’s most enduring influences, from the power of military and automotive design to the elegance of equestrian style.

Accessories round out the season with softly constructed, burnished leather goods in saddle-inspired color combinations of black and brown, adding the final touch to the considered refinement of a gentleman’s wardrobe.