Thom Browne has released his spring/summer 2021 collection through a new video documentary captured at the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum last week – home to multiple Olympic games past and the upcoming Summer 2028 games.
Marking the second season Browne presented men’s and women’s together, the collection was showcased on a group of Olympic athletes and models choreographed to interact with each other in unique formations and angles. The fantasy experienced during Browne’s physical shows was introduced through virtual elements, physical renditions of his iconic sketches, and sound used as connectors for the film’s storyline. The film’s plot points are connected by the narration of a special commentator in the tone of a sports announcer.
This season, the lines between menswear and womenswear are blurred. Proportions are elongated and exaggerated. For men, long, oversized blazers and coats, structured, fully canvased knitwear with pleated skirts, shorts, and cropped trousers. For women, oversized sack suits, long, structured blazers and pencil skirts that pull off the body, high armhole blazers with skirts that sit low on the waist.
Constructions of wool, cotton, cashmere, silk, and satin are simple and classic this season but are interpreted in new ways. Trompe l’oeil, seersucker, intarsia, and hand embroidery are all highly detailed features this season. These can be seen in jackets for men and women sewn together like pieces of a puzzle, a rugby stripe blazer features intarsia. Each piece this season is hand sewn together, finished with tiny hand-embroidered swimmers, each stripe a swimmer’s lane.
Highlights this season include knit cashmere scarves twisted to look like a swimmer’s towel around the neck, as well as Browne’s drawings hand-embroidered onto blazers, jackets, and skirts. A summer tweed with oxford ribbons woven throughout the fabric, a mix of satins and grosgrain ribbon stitched together to create a fabric. and cardigans, both cable knit and classic Thom Browne in white cashmere, are also focuses this season.
Leather bags and shoes in nubuck, an homage to classic American sportswear, as well as headwear with a futuristic reinterpretation of early 20th century styles, rounds out the collection.
See the entire collection film below.