American designer Todd Snyder eschewed a runway presentation this season for a simple showroom presentation on rolling racks, allowing the clothes to speak for themselves: This collection has a lot to say.
The collection’s silhouettes are oversized, but with the slouchy, relaxed appeal that feels more reminiscent of a Brooks Brothers sack suit, circa 1920, than the overly self-conscious volume of the 1980s. Vintage plaids abound, as does a heavy (literally) workwear aesthetic with stove-pipe pant legs that will drag on the floor and end up tattered and dirty and that will be okay. Some of the fabrics are deliberately pilled to please the Kurt Cobain within us all, as will thick, slouchy sweaters (including the ultimate work-from-home-day uniform of sweater knit shorts) in cable patterns and fuzzy mohair argyles. Several bright Fair Isle jacquards are intentionally reversed to show the knits’ structure. Suitings include chalk-striped Gatsby-esque numbers, a dark denim peak lapelled model, as well as heathered plaids with deeply pleated trousers. Snyder’s Dylan jacket — a suede version of a classic denim jacket and a perennial best-seller — is done in tonal color blocks in tan and brown hues.
The palette incorporates fall favorites like a not-quite-safety orange, olive (especially nice in a sleek puffer coat) rusty browns, and inky indigo blues. Unexpected teals and aquas prove a fresh counterpoint to all the earthiness.
Snyder says of the season, “This season’s collection honors the evolution of New American style. If the collection had a soundtrack, it would feature the eclectically tailored sounds of LCD Soundsystem mixed with the raw energy of A Tribe Called Quest. It’s a re-engineering of American classics juxtaposing tailoring, workwear, military, and street style. Picture double-breasted suits but in slouchy silhouettes then finished in lush Donegal tweeds, velvets, and corduroy, paired with oversized hoodies and grandpa cardigans, or an oversized Balmacaan stealing the scene in black leather.”
If Daft Punk is playing at your house this September, these are the clothes you’ll be wearing.