US BUYERS WELCOME BRITISH MENSWEAR IN CHICAGO

by Paul Alger Feb 10, 2025

The Chicago Menswear Collective was hailed a resounding success by the 45 British exhibitors, with many reporting record business at the show. This season, the UK Fashion and Textile Association (ukft.org) worked with the UK Department of Business and Trade and the British Consulate in Chicago to support and promote the group. His Majesty‘s Deputy Consul visited the show, impressed by the quality and energy of the UK brands and the mutually beneficial relationships that bind the U.S., Canada, and the UK.

British exhibitors with a U.S. agent fared especially well as this is still an appointment and order-writing show. In the classic aisles, Birddog Group represented Alan Paine and Kuehnerts represented Corgi Knitwear, London Tradition, Harley and Co, Joshua Ellis, Scott and Charters. Both agencies were non-stop busy! Jim Seaman of Kuehnert Agency said “We didn’t stop the entire 4 days; that’s what happens when you represent the best UK brands! Having the principals on hand from the UK factories is also an enormous help to us and our buyers.” Noted Susannah Murray of Harley of Scotland, “The Chicago Collective has such positive energy and buyer attendance. Despite the uncertainty around tariffs, the show was of high caliber and attracted serious and professional buyers who concentrate on quality, provenance, and love our unique heritage.” James Hinton of Alan Paine England agreed. “The feel of the Chicago Collective was very optimistic, and our clients were positive about our FW2025 collection. We had very good sell-through for FW2024 in both knitwear and wovens.”

The mood was also positive on the contemporary aisles with John Smedley, Peregrine London and Service Works, represented by Black Watch Agency who confirmed that both their regular and new accounts visited them at the show. Nicole Lawson of John Smedley said, “This was our most productive Chicago Collective to-date with existing, new and returning customers. U.S. customers are very appreciative of our product, of the heritage and the quality”.

UK vendors Far Afield and Sanders at Peregrine NYC‘s booth were equally upbeat. Said Simon Tennant of Sanders, “It was great to meet new and existing merchants from across North America. The show is friendly and well-organized. Our Sanders AW2025 collection was very well received, as was our extensive stock support service for immediate shipment.”

On level four, largely based around U.S. agents, the mood was similarly upbeat. UK brands included Sunspel (with M5, Johnstons of Elgin) and Harris Wharf (with CD Network), and Lavenham showing on its own for the first time.

UK brands without agents attracted buyers looking for new products and styles. Barbour was ubiquitous at the show, sponsoring the reception, café and coat-check. Paul Smith was delighted with their larger booth that enabled them to show a full collection for the first time. The UK positivity was echoed by other UK brands in the area, including Orlebar Brown and Harry’s London. Wax London, showing for the first time, was packed from the opening of the show to the very end. Pantherella, Chrysalis, Seaward & Stearn and others also reported good business with existing and new accounts. Richard Utting of Loake noted that retailers showed strong interest in their products and their history. “We will definitely be returning to Chicago and hope to increase our footprint at the fair.”

Whilst there was much talk about potential duty hikes at the show, leading some exhibitors to say that some buyers were being more cautious than in the past, there was no evidence that U.S. retailers were reluctant to place business with UK brands, although some were delaying final order confirmations until they had more clarity. Said Biba Jansonius of Tateossian, “Chicago Collective is our most important U.S. show. Some of our customers were a little more cautious and price-sensitive than usual but we secured some new accounts, and we have lots of new contacts to follow up with.” Huw Griffith-Jones of Fox Umbrellas added, “We’ve seen a large number of our regular customers and met some interesting new ones.” In the men’s tailoring part of the show, Lindsay Taylor of Holland & Sherry noted that they’re going to ask for a bigger booth next year. “The U.S. is a key market for Holland & Sherry, and we still have lots of potential here.”

In conclusion, the U.S. makes up Britain’s largest market after the EU. U.S. buyers continue to welcome quality British fashion and textile brands as we offer something truly unique. What’s more, we’re working hard to push the boundaries of ethical and sustainable trade in partnership with our allies and friends in the U.S. and Canada.”