by Stephen Garner

As this season’s Pitti Uomo guest designer, creative director Glenn Martens unveiled the autumn/winter ‘19 collection for his Y/PROJECT label in the mystical Renaissance setting of the Santa Maria Novella’s Grand Cloister in Florence last night.

The Paris-based men’s and women’s label took the opportunity of being this season’s Pitti Uomo Special Guest to celebrate its identity while highlighting its evolution into a higher level of sophistication.

Known for his playful take on historical references, Martens developed a high-concept show aimed at transporting guests out of time and space. The Cloister was plunged in darkness – flashlights handed out to guests at the show entrance as the only source of light gave a surreal mood to the moment.

Pop-up and double-shoulder design features permeate through the tailored wardrobe, giving unexpected 3-D effects to classic wool trousers and reinterpreting the formal tuxedo in the brand’s own conceptual language.

The menswear line expanded this season by adding its own footwear and bag lines, both hand-crafted in Italy.

All men’s shoe styles (thigh-high boots, mid-calf and low) are square-toed in: baby blue or sand suede, metallic, crocodile-embossed and patent leather. Tuxedo-inspired black and white men’s dress shoes complete the line.

Black nylon bags come in a brown leather frame structure and are available in a variety of styles: weekend bag, backpack and fanny pack.