by Stephen Garner

Alexander McQueen has released its men’s fall/winter 2020 collection, which drew inspiration from nature and the drawings of English artist Henry Moore.

Wool-silk suits and coats in shades of deep orange and carnelian red printed with Moore’s Three-Quarter Figure 1928 (reproduced courtesy of the Henry Moore Foundation) was the highlight of this collection’s inspiration. The jacket and coat in this capsule are finished with horn button fastenings on the center front, and the trousers feature two side pockets and two pockets on the back.

Signature sharp tailoring is cut in traditional menswear fabrics this season, including Donegal tweed, sharkskin mohair, camel and black gabardine, paneled in contrasting shades and with sharp dart detailing. The relationship between the British luxury brand’s men’s and womenswear tailoring is seen in the use of couture fabrics including double Duchesse satin in rich and metallic shades inspired by the minerals and ores hidden beneath the earth’s surface. Referencing Scottish flora is an inky black thistle print over-embroidered with hammered gold bullion. Finally, the perfectly cut tuxedo appears in various incarnations: single- or double-breasted models all with trompe l’oeil detailing.

Also this season, the signature Alexander McQueen skull motif is reinvented in a painterly oversized incarnation, printed on artists’ overalls in caramel canvas embroidered with gold bullion thread and in a cream skull intarsia crew neck jumper with hanging threads.

Other standout items included tailored evening jackets and overcoats that gleam from art nouveau sequin embroidery.