How Bomber Jackets Blew Up

Looking ahead to spring/summer 2017, the bomber’s reign is set to continue. After the J.W. Anderson show in London this June, the outfit that featured a blue bomber worn over a long denim coat was unanimously voted the winning ensemble by various editors and buyers that I spoke to. Elsewhere, Balenciaga – which showed its first men’s runway collection in Paris (now also designed by Demna Gvasalia) – featured a series of short snappy jackets with military vibes and a broad-shouldered silhouette. Expect to see these in plenty of magazine spreads in the months to come. But perhaps one of the most influential designers when it comes to bombers is Kim Jones, who heads up the men’s division of luxury mega brand Louis Vuitton. He might have opened with suiting in his first collection for the house (spring/summer 2012), but the highlights were most definitely the bombers: a varsity jacket with an LV badge on its breast and gold trim on the waistband and cuffs looked like luxury menswear for a new generation. Since then, Jones has continued to re-invent the bomber, from an orange silk version for spring/summer 2015 to his souvenir jackets collection (more on this later) the following year. Other high-end labels, including Burberry and Valentino, started to back the bomber from around 2012/2013, while Lanvin started including riffs on the zip-up as early as spring/summer 2011. Designer Lucas Ossendrijver, who has been at the label for 10 years, has strong form on outerwear – I can still remember the silver zip-up styled with matching trousers and a tie (and awkward fringe) from spring/summer 2013, while his MA1s this season are particularly good. Read more at FashionBeans.