FASHION GROUP INTERNATIONAL RELEASES FASHION COMMUNIQUE, SEPTEMBER EDITION

Each season, Fashion Group International’s trend gurus Sharon Graubard and Nicole Fischelis dutifully report on the styles from New York Fashion Week, with Gary Wassner’s studied eye picking out “Ones to Watch.” We’ve excerpted some of their notes for menswear for the coming season, but you can see the complete report on FGI’s website here.

Redefined Gentlemen

New York’s Spring Summer ’25 Fashion Week kicked off with Men’s Day, an always-inspiring event (at top). This season, innovative tailoring and gentle tints signaled an updated approach to menswear. Terry Singh loosened up his signature tailored skirt suits with paneled, asymmetrical skirts worn with mismatched jackets or tops. The looks were shown on dancers in choreographed sequences, emphasizing his new sense of movement. LA-based Tristan Detwiler of Stan is known for crafting antique fabrics into laid-back suits and separates; this season was his first New York showing. Jack Sivan of Sivan showed a timeless navy blazer over a khaki skirt, with models staged in refined country picnic settings. Aaron Potts of A. Potts continued his exploration of volume and tailoring for layered monochrome separates. Of — Nothing is a new collection from Brooklyn-based designer Jack Fullerton that combines beautiful fabrics in a subtle palette with utility-influenced shapes. Tarpley designer Tarpley Brooks Jones combined innovative technology with razor-sharp cuts.

Save The Garden: A few New York designers staged their shows in New York’s tiny pocket gardens, underlining the need to save these precious patches of nature amid the brick and pavement. Johnson Hartig of Libertine showed at the endangered Elizabeth Street Garden in Nolita for a show that was part celebration and part protest; some models, and the designer himself, carried signs that said “Save the Garden.”

By The Sea: Nautical inspirations are fashion perennials. The Salting designers, Michael Ward and Manel Garcia Espejo, expanded their signature code of seaside stripes with a nautical print from the archives at Ratti silk. Another look featured a blazer embellished with a giant sailor’s knot.

Denim Craft: Designers give denim crafty treatments this season, part of the deepening appreciation for all things artisanal. Sermon Series, designed by Santanna “Saint” Hayes and Deklyen Tormier, offered their own version of the patchwork: a collage of gradated washes mixed with indigo-based prints for a boxy overshirt shown over matching slim 5-pocket jeans.

Forever Pink: The preference for pink shows no signs of slowing down. Clara Son gave her bisque-pink menswear separates dimension with a contrast of matte and shine.

Sport Luxe

Active sports gear has infiltrated fashion in a way that goes beyond labels like “athleisure” or “gym-core.” Sport influences are now just part of fashion’s vernacular, a testament to the way fashion absorbs and reflects current lifestyles. Willy Chavarria titled his collection “América”; that accent references his Mexican-American roots. This season, he’s collaborating with Adidas for sneakers and some pieces, like a ruffled, Victorian-inspired active ensemble and a vintage-y, color-blocked track set. Tarpley brought his sharp tailoring to a tech jacket tucked into complex track pants. Ib Kamara of Off-White brought elegance to a running suit with a corset-paneled zip jacket; the collection was entitled “Duty Free,” reflecting the label’s global DNA. Wei Lin and Zoe Champion of PH5, known for their sustainably sourced knits, showed a chic sports bra above trompe l’oeil printed running shorts. Terry Singh paired authentic sports jerseys with his signature pleated skirts, creating a nice contrast between sport and sartorial.

Lace Love: Lace is a historic fabric that speaks to tradition, ideas of luxury, artisanship, and the often-under-appreciated work of women who tatted lace or crocheted doilies at home. Jonathan Simkhai of Simkhai was inspired by a photo of his mother on her wedding day; the textured lace she wore was from his grandfather’s lace mill in Iran.

Go Go Cargo

Utility looks and cargo styles are part of fashion’s embrace of authentic workwear—the kinds of functional, sturdy clothes that hold up to the physical demands of farmers, construction workers, and tradespeople. Brooklyn-based designer Jack Fullerton of Of—Nothing elevated workwear-inspired looks with subtle dyes and thoughtful details like French seams, along with interesting fabrics sourced from Japan and Italy. Who Decides War elongated a cargo pullover and added roomy front pockets and twill tape drawstrings. Willy Chavarria spun weathered brown denim into a trucker jacket and a multi-pocketed skirt for a collection inspired by the United Farm Workers Movement. Ulla Johnson brought her feminine touch to the look with a flounced sleeveless coat over cargo short-shorts, all in lovely shades of olive. Jack Sivan of Sivan went elegant yet practical with a blue ensemble detailed with utility tabs and clips. Stuart Vevers at Coach used distressed leather for a flight jacket over a cargo miniskirt.

Shirt Story: Shirting fabrics—smooth, tightly woven cottons or cotton blends, often patterned with yarn-dye stripes—are key for next spring, bringing their crisp freshness to shirts, dresses, and separates. Tommy Hilfiger pieced various striped shirtings into a boxy short-sleeved style.

One of Gary Wassner’s “Ones To Watch”

TOMMY HILFIGER
Emerging from the bustling streets of New York City, this new and spirited designer named Tommy Hilfiger is turning heads and sparking conversations in fashion circles. For those unfamiliar, Hilfiger blends a preppy, all-American aesthetic with a rebellious twist that feels both nostalgic and utterly contemporary.

Hilfiger’s collection offers a modern take on classic Americana, with a color palette that sticks to the basics: deep blues, bold reds, and crisp whites. But don’t be fooled by the simplicity. Each piece is meticulously designed with a youthful spirit, creating a look that is effortlessly cool and undeniably fresh. Think varsity jackets reimagined with a streetwear edge, or clean-cut denim with unexpected detailing that hints at a certain irreverence—sophistication and cool.

What sets Tommy Hilfiger apart is the clever interplay between casual and chic, making it versatile enough for those who crave style but demand comfort. Slouchy and sweet. Tailored but easy. This is fashion that you could wear to a downtown gallery opening or a weekend brunch. The collection feels democratic, appealing to those who want to stand out but still feel a sense of belonging to a broader movement.

It’s clear Hilfiger understands the art of balance, mixing statement pieces with everyday staples in a way that feels effortless yet intentional. There’s genius happening here!

There’s a palpable buzz building around this brand. Fashion insiders are keeping a close eye on the label, and if this collection is anything to go by, Hilfiger could very well become the name to know in the years to come. With a clear vision and a distinct style, Tommy Hilfiger is poised to redefine what it means to be “cool” in the world of fashion. Keep this name on your radar—it might just be the next big thing. Remember the name: Tommy Hilfiger. Definitely one to watch!

There are five Fashion Communiques, chock full of trends to keep in mind for the coming seasons. Read them all at Fashion Group International.