How Jacquemus Quietly Rebuilt Menswear In His Own Image
When Simon Porte Jacquemus launched his womenswear line in 2011, he put everything into the line — even his meager savings — leaving no room for accessories, footwear or men’s clothing. When he finally did introduce a menswear line seven years later, the designer asserted that it finally “felt right … because of something that happened in my life.” Though Jacquemus hardly admitted as much, the ethos behind the garments didn’t come entirely from the imagined European iconoclast who influenced his womenswear; instead, it came from within Jacquemus himself. This sounds like a given, considering his label’s eponymous branding. However, menswear designers often create a barrier between themselves and their clothing line. For instance, Raf Simons, JW Anderson and Craig Green are responsible for some of today’s most dynamic menswear collections, but their founders retain a muted, versatile uniform. Even more outré auteurs like Rick Owens and Yohji Yamamoto prefer a muted capsule of their own wares to the more idiosyncratic items they showcase on the runway. Read more at Hypebeast.