In the Market, FW15
By Erik DeFruscio
As press preview season slows down, we recap some highlights from out in the market.
Jack Henry debuted their autumn/winter 2015 collection showing a mixture of fabrics including silk, mohair, flannel and fleece. Both the colors and styles were kept basic with black jackets, navy shirts and pleated pants. The brand is only e-commerce at the moment and their prices range from $150 to $1,500.
Muttonhead is a Canadian brand that is sold e-commerce as well as all over the world. Everything that the brand sells is under $180 leaving it at a good price point. Muttonhead showed knits, fleece, dual layer soft-shell and wool throughout their autumn/winter 2015 collection. The brand sells everything from hats and camp pants to rain fleeces. This brand also sticks to the basics in color, but shows versatility when it comes to their fabrics and most of the collection is also unisex.
Wolverine debuted two collections for autumn/winter 2015: Wolverine Since 1883 and Wolverine 1000 Mile. Wolverine Since 1883 is the original line of Wolverine boots and shoes. The boots are made with full-grain leather uppers and functional rubber outsoles. Wolverine 1000 Mile is the Wolverine collections bestselling shoe. This brand was first introduced in 1914 and made from shell horsehide. With durability and comfort, it was said to give you 1000 miles of wear. Both Wolverine brands are sold in multiple colors and are mostly under $400. The collections are available both online and in stores including DNA Footwear and Nordstrom’s.
Pierson Sportswear showed their first ever collection at the BPMW press week. The collection is inspired by the Pierson family, most heavily by his grandfather. The collection contains wool, silk, khaki, linen and cashmere sport coats showcased in multiple colors from red to caramel. The jackets price point is around $550 but whether the brand is e-commerce or will be sold in stores has yet to be announced.
I Love Ugly is a New Zealand company that has multiple stores across the world and will soon be opening stores in New York and California. The collection is extremely large because the brand drops about 100 new products every month. The collection included wool overcoats, cotton shorts and cotton poplin pants while maintaining simplistic colors including white, black, gray and camel. The price point for this brand is $80 to $300 and can be bought in their stores or online.
Trim was the last collection featured at BPMW. The collection is designed to combine fashion, fit and function. Showing three new styles: The Nashville, a classic denim wash with distressing, silver snaps and Western style pockets and detailing; The Soho, a French Terrys style in a deep blue denim hue; and The Silver Lake, a dotted woven denim that features contrast stitching and silver buttons. While Trim is not yet for sale, the collection has a Kickstarter to raise $35,000 to start the collection and backers will receive shirts from the Trim collection.
Dana Dramov Consulting
Breda is a multi-versed watch company that is now releasing their 2015 Summer Collection. They sourced materials and textures that trigger nostalgic summer vibes. Using accented second hands, colored cases and colored leather bands, the Breda watch is a bold and stylish accessory. The watch showcases classic gold, silver and gunmetal cases giving it a very appealing look.
Sabah is high quality leather handmade by cobblers in an ancient bazaar in Turkey. The craft of hand-stitching has been handed down over generations and remains only in a few families. Sabahs are created from hand-selected and tanned leathers that are designed for comfort and durability. A rubber outsole is attached to the bottom to protect the leather and can easily be replaced by any cobbler, allowing the shoe to live on through wear and tear. The shoe comes in multiple styles and colors but is most traditionally sold in brown. However, there are only a certain amount of shoes made each month making supply limited.
Sanqvist produces everyday bags and items made in Stockholm. They have canvas, waxed canvas, outdoor, leather and many other collections. The collections consist of backpacks, weekenders, messenger bags and tote bags or bags geared toward a specific collection including bum bags, laptop bags and shoulder bags. The original canvas bags are durable and made with heavy duty 18oz cotton and contain details in thick tooling leather. The waxed canvas bags are much like the canvas bags except are equipped with a water repellent effect and come with a waterproof Cordura bottom. Lastly, their leather bags are made with vegetable tanned leather that is guaranteed to age and become even more beautiful over time.
Stutterheim Raincoats were inspired by the designer’s grandfather’s raincoat that was found in an abandoned barn in Sweden. The coat was then updated and made to fit the modern man and woman. The raincoats now have double welded seams and rubberized thick cotton, no separate lining. The coats come in multiple colors including white, black, red, blue and green. The company also offers longer coats which have a slightly wider cut, a slit and a more elaborated hood. Each coat is signed and numbered by the seamstress to make sure the quality matches their high standards.
The White Briefs focuses on minimalist tailoring enhanced through contrasting surfaces. Cotton and cashmere are paired with airy mesh, structured wool and accents of silky velvet. A lightweight style can be seen throughout the collection while it still maintains fitted tees, tailored polo’s and strong silhouettes. The autumn/winter 2015 collection is inspired by the Southern Swedish shorelines with pewter, olive, deep blacks and pure whites.
The White Briefs x Nick Wooster is a collaboration that produces a 100 percent merino wool collection in partnership with The Woolmark Company. The collection comprises knitted coats, gym shorts, briefs and robes with a palette of dark grey, black, navy and touches of olive. The merino wool is made with the world’s softest woolen fiber combined with woolen fleece providing a high level of comfort.
Paul & Shark
The new Paul & Shark autumn/winter collection for 2015 is a re-interpretation of the classic line, adding details throughout the collection showcasing the evolution of the brand. The collection includes lined jackets, shirts, cardigan-blazers and pea coats.
Nylon jackets with leather or suede details revamped the collection, along with the incorporation of collars and soft fur linings. The fabrics are modeled along essential lines that are expressed in colors of blue, dark green, grey, dark brown and black.
The Paul & Shark collection breaks itself down into three sub-collections: Smart Casual, Luxury and Typhoon 20000. All of the collections incorporate the sportswear that the brand is known for. Whether it is stylistic codes, high quality fabrics or technical sportswear Paul & Shark continues to evoke their nautical style.
G-Star RAW’s men’s collection continues to show their technical designs at their autumn/winter 2015 press preview. The brand introduced new styles including a range of moto-style denim, heavy quality Melton wool coats, performance parkas and detachable backpacks made from durable lightweight fabrics that include a zip-off waist pack.
The collections dark palette includes maroon, navy, green, black and blue. There are many all leather jackets along with jackets that include leather detailing. Denim was also shown throughout the collection including multiple pairs of jeans and a classic denim shirt paired with overalls.
The collection will be available online and in-stores as of September 2015.
Italia Independent Sunglasses
Italia Independent: The idea behind Italia Independent is that it is creative and stylish brand for independent people. The brand blends fashion and design, tradition and innovation. Being made in Italy, it constantly revisits classic icons while exporting the Italian design throughout the world. The collection has many looks and is always expanding on their innovative and stylish eyewear.
EYEYE: An extension of the already famous Italia Independent eyewear, EYEYE presents itself with an innovative and technical product that showcases its personality. EYEYE pays close attention to the eye and how essential it is to us. This product has brought an evolutionary trend, melding together affordability and technology to create sunglasses and prescription eyeglasses that feature polarized lenses in multiple shapes. The idea is that it is no longer eyewear, it is an accessory.
Originals Eyewear: A partnership between Adidas and Italia Independent has led to the launch of Originals Eyewear. The collection is just the beginning of the partnership between these two companies and they plan to showcase both what Adidas and Italia Independent stand for together in the future. Combining the global leader in the sporting goods industry and the creative, stylish and innovative Italian brand, the collaboration shows sports sunglasses with color that brings out the personality of the wearer.
Mr. & Mrs. Italy
The collection explores the idea of decorated yet concealed outerwear with the use of military garments, fur and color. The parkas take on vintage camouflage and have been softened and colored to take on a unique identity.
The materials used to create this military tailoring and lighter outerwear have sparked new models for the brand bringing fresh new looks. All of the materials used to create this evolution of outerwear are made in Italy.
The prints, hoods and eco-fur all play an important roles when integrated into the collection. The multicolored fox patchwork has been recreated as a 3D print on technical nylon while the sheepskin and baby lamb eco-fur lines the men’s parkas.