NEW YORK MEN’S DAY: DESIGNERS RESHAPING MODERN MASCULINITY
New York Men’s Day has become the official kick-off to New York Fashion Week where ten diverse menswear and genderless designers presented collections across three floors at the iconic Daylight Studio on Manhattan’s west side. Guests were encouraged to visit adjacent lounges where event sponsors Sperry Footwear and Victorinox showcased designer collaborations while offering the latest in libations and hand-crafted cocktails. Hair and grooming for all the presenting designer was created by the dynamic team at Oribe.
Seascapes, urban warriors, and laid-back allure were themes of the day. As I set out to understand how the way we dress bares influence on a culture where the paradigm of what it means to be a man is shifting, we looked to these emerging designers to shine a light upon a path forward. My visit begins with an ambitious presentation by A. Potts and ends with dancers floating on air dressed in Terry Singh’s inspired SS25 Collection.
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A Potts
A PottsDetroit native Aaron Potts’ URBANOCEANA USS25 collection draws inspiration from the awe-inspiring drama of the deep blue sea and effortlessly conjures a collection that terra firma dwellers can take to the streets. Standbys like cotton jersey and denim are paired with unlikely collaborators (holographic organza, anyone?) along with expertly draped jersey creating an urban-futuristic dreamscape that is palpable. Stand-out pieces are carpet-ready gowns in muted earth tones. Tye-dyed jersey and iridescent fabric make me nostalgic for late-nineties nightlife. In keeping with Pott’s vision, Mr. Potts’ creates a universe where gender identity and self-expression are as fluid and mysterious as the sea itself. Wonders await those who are willing to dive deep.
Clara Son
Clara Son presents her third collection at NYMD proving that this South Korean designer could be in it for the long haul. A masterful use of color and texture are on full display in her latest presentation, REMINISCENCE SS25. Muted pinks and greens are combined with earth tones and woven into a urban tapestry born out of hard-knocks and relentless optimism. Navigating through a mundane cityscape may not be for the faint of heart, but the odds are stacked in your favor as long as you’re dressed appropriately. Beautifully unstructured shirts, jackets and rain slickers pair effortlessly with luxurious knits and relaxed shorts and trousers. A textured knit hoodie featuring an artful camo pattern was one of my favorite pieces and put an inspired spin on the modern streetwear staple. Messenger-style shoulder bags and protective style headgear seemed purposeful and finished the look with a nod to bicycle culture. Son takes her inspiration from a recurring dream while expertly navigating whimsical concepts into useful, spirited pieces that are grounded in reality.
Earthling
Making their NYFW debut this season, Earthing is all attitude with a helpful dose of rock and roll badassery. Incorporating vintage fabrics, leather, and denim detailed with hand-beading and painted finishes, the collection draws inspiration from pop culture icons like Michael Jackson, Prince and George Michael. Favorites are the embroidered bombers and patchwork denim jackets and vests. Earthling successfully creates a collection suited for the modern urban warrior setting out on a journey of unapologetic self-expression.
The Salting
Michael Ward and Manel Garcia Espejo’s recent debut at Italy’s Pitti Uomo apparently informed the direction of their stand-out collection showing at NYMD this season. Titled Il Mare, The Salting invites you to an opulent seaside chateau, where romance and intrigue are on the agenda. Two live cellists were on hand to perform a sultry soundscape atop a weathered boardwalk where models stroll at a leisurely pace. Wide brimmed hats punctuate delightfully unstructured silhouettes conjuring memories of summer afternoons sipping Campari by the sea. Nautical rope is twisted into loops and knots adding luxurious textures and maritime-style detailing to shirts and jackets. Ward and Espejo have created a world that is at once original and nostalgic… a place where you will want to linger just long enough to get to know an eccentric local or two. It should be noted that the designers list Italian Cinema and films by Visconti and Fellini as sources of inspiration.
The Salting is sold at Bergdorf Goodman, Peoples and Aerin.
Sivan
SivanJack Sivan knows how to tell a story. Partly inspired by the paintings of John Singer Sargent, Sivan utilizes models in a variety of ages, shapes and sizes against portrait-style tableaus that encourages further inspection. Gorgeous greens and blues are set against taupe and tans creating thoughtfully tailored ensembles that are a study in understated elegance. Safari-style chore jackets and high-waisted pants had me longing for adventures in faraway lands. Distinct turn-of-the-century details combined with 1980’s-style silhouettes were charming and unexpected. Sivan is mostly a custom bespoke business and is planning a pop-up experience in NYC this Fall.
Of Nothing
Of NothingSubtle, subdued and refined, Brooklyn-based designer Jack Fullerton makes his NYMD debut this season with Of Nothing. A comfortable casualness permeates the collection where classic pieces mingle effortlessly, creating a cohesive presentation that appeals to the post-modern minimalist in every man. I loved the three-quarter jacket in navy and the cropped chore jackets with oversized patch pockets.
Sermon Series
Sermon SeriesSantanna Hayes and Tormier Jordan debut Sermon Series this season at NYMD. Drawing upon the connection between mind, body, and spirit, the designers channel confident masculinity while still maintaining a connection to what keeps us grounded. A patchwork denim poncho was a showstopper. Suits in bold color and relaxed construction were elegant and comfortable proving that great style comes from within and looking good is a state of mind.
Stan
StanYou can’t deny the appeal of the California coast and the relaxed allure of bohemian surf culture. I’ve been following the rise of STAN on social media for some time, so it was a pleasure to finally see the man and his work IRL. I was immediately greeted by designer Tristan Detwiler’s beautiful Mom, Michelle, who was gracious enough to share secrets only a mother could tell. An influencer and designer in her own right, Michelle described how Tristan embarked on his sewing odyssey when he decided, on a whim, to make his own suit for a Great Gatsby-themed party he was to attend in college. His outfit was a huge hit. A star was born and he never looked back. Driven by a passion for vintage fabrics collected from around the globe, the designer stays true to his California Coastal aesthetic while showcasing his creative process and ever-evolving tailoring skills. The chore jackets and bombers are the stuff of yacht rock fantasy and incorporate a playful use of textures and colors punctuated with hand-finished details. For models, Stan recruited close friends and supporters of the brand which included a prominent Broadway producer and a department store CEO, adding that much more authenticity to his story.
It should be noted that this is Stan’s first collection geared to appeal to a wholesale customer, where he will still offer pieces made from vintage, often discontinued fabric productions, along with hand-crafted refinement that has become the heart and soul of the brand. His was a thoughtful and focused presentation by an auspicious young designer with refined taste and style to spare.
Tarpley
TarpleyThis Nashville-born designer offers a collection born from a neo-noir thriller of the late nineteen-eighties. Exaggerated shoulders and graphic details gave new-wave rock vibes while still remaining true to its roots in modern streetwear. Soft blues and purples popped against a palate of gray and black steeping the collection in some serious retro vibes. The overall impression remains fresh, sporty, and wearable.
Terry Singh
Terry SinghTerry Singh was literally floating on air at his NYMD SS 25 presentation. Spectators gazed in awe as a troupe of dancers performed in Singh’s impeccably tailored skirts and suiting that paired perfectly with iconic basketball team jerseys of his idols. The designer danced and twirled alongside friends and family members, infusing a sense of joy and levity into the bustling venue. Singh expertly elevates elements of classic streetwear culture while longing to break from the confines and traditions of his past. The collection is a love letter that rings out with self-actualized authenticity born of wisdom, experience, and unabashed creativity.
Terry Singh is a story of a visionary redefining what it means to live, to love, to create as a modern man in a modern city called New York.
Marko Kalfa is a photographer and designer who aspires to retire by the sea and wear The Salting for the remainder of his days.
