TODD SNYDER DEBUTS FALL/WINTER 2024 COLLECTIONS AT PITTI

by John Russel Jones


Todd Snyder unveiled his Fall Winter 2024 Collection on the opening night of Pitti Immagine Uomo 105 in Florence, Italy yesterday. The showcase represented both Snyder’s grounding in classical tailoring as well as a major stylistic leap forward for the American designer. The collection consisted of 81 looks, 50 from the Todd Snyder collection and 31 from the designer’s new partnership with Woolrich, as the brand’s Black Label creative director.

“When I started my own line 13 years ago, presenting at Pitti Uomo was something I could never have imagined. Back then, I felt so lucky to be able to purchase from and work with some of Italy’s legendary mills and factories. This country has continued to inspire my designs, so showing in Florence today is a dream come true,” said Snyder.

“The Snyder name in Dutch means ‘tailor’ (cutter). When I launched my brand, I set out to design luxe versions of the iconic pieces in a man’s wardrobe. I’d often start with a vintage silhouette from Savile Row, old Hollywood, or field clothing and then think about how to reinvent it, mix it, make it relevant and finish it in an understated yet luxurious material — a cashmere regatta tuxedo, a CPO jacket in kid suede or a French workman’s jacket in Italian cashmere.”

Snyder’s Pitti Uomo debut was divided into two acts. The first, his premier collection as Creative Director of Woolrich Black Label and the second, his much-celebrated Todd Snyder collection.

The Woolrich collection included sophisticated takes on heritage styles from the company’s 190-year history, including the classic Buffalo Check Shirt updated in cashmere and a refresh of the Arctic Parka once worn by Admiral Richard E. Byrd, the leader of the first American scientific missions to the Antarctic. Other pieces marry Woolrich’s innovative technical fabrics with sartorial flourishes.

This season’s Todd Snyder Collection is called The Modernist. It was inspired by masters of design who stripped their work back to its powerful essence, creating beautiful art over a functional base: think Joy Division’s Unknown Pleasures, Ferdinand Alexander Porsche’s body design for the 912, Franz Kline’s Painting No. 7 and Arne Jacobsen’s “Egg Chairs.” The famous Danish designer once said of his furniture that “The primary factor is proportions.” This season, the Todd Snyder Collection’s proportions are a modern-day take on the “British Drape” invented by Frederick Scholte, the Duke of Windsor’s tailor (and a mentor to Per Anderson of Anderson & Sheppard).

Photo credit: Alessandro Galatoli