A KNOCKOUT NEW COLLECTION FROM ALEXANDER JULIAN

‘Timeless’ was a synonym for boring basics back in the mid-’70s when Alexander Julian first launched his collection. “My goal was to create the ultimate new vision of Timeless Style for Men, an innovative merger of good taste and tradition. Because it was intended to last a long time, the fabrics, fit, details, and tailoring had to be exceptional. I was sure men needed a little color too. Unintentionally, I became the most expensive American-made designer clothing at that time…”

After winning numerous design awards and expanding to Japan and then Europe with the Ermenegildo Zegna family, Alec got caught in a familiar story of mergers and acquisitions, ultimately enduring a Venture Capital train wreck that removed his brand from the U.S. market for several years.

“A few years ago, I decided to try again, same premise: beautiful American-made menswear using my skills and mills. The tailoring, including sport coats, sportswear, and indoor outerwear, is now crafted in the incredible former Hickey Freeman factory in Rochester, NY, now owned by IAG and known as Rochester Tailored Clothing.”

Neither words nor photos can do these beautiful items justice: they need to be seen and touched and tried on in person. While many of the fabrics look heavy, Alec designed more than a dozen fabrics specifically for warmer climates.
Regarding prices, Alex explains they’re reasonable, given the quality of the fabrics and the craftsmanship. “American-made, they are comparable to the best Italian brands that retail for at least twice the price. My fabrics are Britain’s and Italy’s finest. Sportswear jackets wholesale from $325 in stretch cashmere, lots in the $400s, topping out in the mid $500s. Beautifully tailored sport coats are mid $500s to $675. Most stores take an average 2.5 markup but sell some a little higher, some a little lower, to hit that sweet spot. A proven profit center, special orders take 4-5 weeks. One small specialty store just bought one expensive jacket for himself and sold 11 more from showing it. I love to make in-store appearances and have a good track record for generating lots of special orders.”

Among MR’s favorite items: sport coats in woven stretch British Shetland with suede trim; a DB blazer in Italian featherweight stretch cashmere; a stretch cashmere/high micron merino herringbone in a single-breasted peak-lapel model with open patch pockets; and the “Tinker’s Coat”—an outerwear piece in 82% baby Camel’s hair/18% silk fabric from Italy.

Alex is not interested in selling everyone, rather only those merchants who ‘get it.’ He strongly believes in making in-store appearances since, for him, the best part of the process is seeing customers loving the product. For more info: ajistudio@me.com.