CANALI LOOKS TO THE 1970S FOR FALL
For its fall/winter 2021 collection, Canali immerses itself in the atmosphere of the 1970s with taste and refinement. The brand’s three lines—Canali 1934, Exclusive, and Black Edition—take inspiration from the period, conveyed through three points of view.
A proliferation of ideas, encounters, and experiences, the Seventies were years of frenzy and evolution in every field, from culture to art to fashion. Indeed, fashion—the daughter of the psychedelic and rebellious style of the Sixties—embodied the spirit of “experimentation” with an eye to the future, in search of self-affirmation and freedom in aesthetic choices. A freedom that, faithful to the nonconformist spirit of the period, mixed different styles and cultures, creating a set of distinctive features that are still a source of inspiration half a century later. Enveloping lines flanked the tricot and jacquard workmanship that populated the period. Soft, comfortable jumpers were distinguished by new textures and color interpretations with geometric patterns. Leather biker jackets become reference for outerwear while velvet trousers made a name for themselves, infusing a refined and distinctive touch into men’s clothing. The common thread that binds the three segments is the concept of “cocooning”, which is linked to the idea of something that infuses comfort, warmth, and well-being. From jersey jackets to knitwear and outerwear, with soft and comfortable fabrics, Canali’s fall/winter collection welcomes you in a warm embrace in the cold of winter.
In Canali 1934 the vibrations of the ‘70s are absorbed, reinterpreting sober, warm, earthy colors and geometric patterns in a modern key. The translation of these concepts is essential in order to rewrite a strong and distinctive aesthetic for the collection.
The houndstooth motif in warm beige tones renews iconic garments from the male wardrobe, such as the Saharienne jacket and the carcoat; the same motif is reinterpreted in a macro key, transforming a traditional pattern into a modern graphic symbol that enriches the knitwear with jacquard workmanship.
In the outerwear, leather embellishes the jackets: the combination of nappa and suede in shades of burgundy with contrasting stitching alternates with full-grain nappa in avio green. The iconic trench coat, dear to Canali’s historical tradition, maintains stylistic details, such as the belt at the waist and the wide collar, but is renewed in materials, through the use of velvet or a Seventies-inspired wool-cashmere blend that transform it into a soft and practical coat.
Technical research reaches new heights in tailoring. Out of this research, begun in the mid-2000s with the introduction of Kei, which is renewed every season thanks to the continuous study of fabrics, are born a series of garments that make structural lightness their strong point. In particular, the Shacket is a garment that combines the silhouette of a sartorial jacket with the ultralight construction of a shirt, from which it also draws numerous style elements such as mother-of-pearl buttons, rounded cuffs, and an under-neck hook, in a combination of elegance and practicality. The Shacket is designed to move from business to leisure, mixing a relaxed attitude with a complete fit.
The timeless models of the footwear tradition, in smooth leather or suede, embellish the outfits of the modern man distinguished by structural details, such as the one-piece construction or the treaded sole, that guarantee comfort and refinement, as demonstrated by the functional two-tone and bi-material sneakers in leather-suede.
The Exclusive line was created for the modern dandy who, this year, takes inspiration from ‘70s lines. The exaltation of stylistic elements of the highest sartorial tradition continues with the Dandy styling which expands in the offer with three-piece suits with gilets and suits with soft shawl lapels that are added to the classic peak lapel. The keywords are “luxury” and “exclusivity” and every detail helps to recreate this mood. Noble yarns, such as cashmere and silk; precious materials, such as leather and fur; stylish details, such as inlays, braids, rhomboidal geometries, and zigzags evoke the ‘70s trends. The palette of colors also recalls that iconic decade: it ranges from cream tones, moss green, dove grey, and blue to off-white and bright white. The search for Exclusive luxury is also expressed in the outerwear in fabric and leather: peacoats alternate the use of new materials and finishes, from Seventies-inspired curly-haired brushed sheepskin to jersey in a lightened wool-silk blend and natural stretch. Quilted parkas are presented in a luxurious water-repellent wool-cashmere twill, while leather with nubuck treatment characterizes the leather blazer, making it soft and silky.
In footwear, the most emblematic novelty of the season is the two-material slip-on in contrasting wool-knit and suede with elastic bands and a rubber sole: a warm, soft and enveloping shoe that offers comfort and delicacy with every step.
Inspired by the world of ‘70s speed sports, Black Edition rediscovers the color-blocking and solid shades, such as racing red or electric blue, of ski suits and racing suits, confirming itself as Canali’s research laboratory. As in the past, we find an explosion of bright and decisive tones and the use of primary colors alongside black and white combinations. An ensemble of aesthetics and outfits that, thanks to polygonal and intertwined geometries and refined workmanship, such as the quilting with the “mountain” motif of ultralight outerwear, becomes the expression of a style with strong personality.
Functionality and distinctive style are the soul of the Black Edition quilted overshirt in wide corduroy. In this garment, outerwear takes on new lines, blending with the lightness and details of a shirt, such as in the chest pockets and the front and cuff buttoning, while maintaining the practicality of a jacket. The soul of the Seventies is also felt in padded outerwear, as with the red gilet with high-definition print that faithfully reproduces the decoration of a rhombus-patterned sweater or the bi-material wool-nylon outerwear developed in wide tracksuits and hooded sweatshirts and in knitwear, with the “mountain”, argyle and fair Isle patterns that evoke iconic ‘70s lozenges.
A novelty of the season is the urban jacket: an outerwear-blazer with a geometric character and defined lines at the waist, double stitching on the sleeves, light construction, front closure with press buttons and flap pockets to add a casual, modern and practical twist to this dynamic men’s look.
And, new to Black Edition footwear are ultralight sneakers with a strong trekking spirit, which we find in details such as intertwined laces that decorate the inner upper and a treaded sole, as well as new combat boot with nylon inserts and metal rings for lacing, ideal for colder climates.