by Stephen Garner

CanaliItalian luxury menswear brand Canali unveiled its first collection created by its new designer Hyun Wook Lee at a special presentation in Milan.

The new Canali Man, as envisioned by the new designer, embraces sartorial tradition and adopts it in a truly personal and contemporary way. For him, style is sensibility; intuition; an expression of the state of mind – an inner world that is represented in four “rooms” – Equilibrium, Dynamism, Steadiness, and Inspiration – that reflect his way of being; living; dressing.

The first room is Equilibrium a synonym of tranquility, security, and comfort. The colors are chosen accordingly between shades of blue and brown, and so are the shapes and proportions which with a balanced precision transition seamlessly from one season to the next. It is the meeting point between formal and casual, where sartorial fabrics are used on the sportswear; made of a wool-linen-silk blend it combines the aesthetic of denim with the elegance and refinement of a suit. The detailing in the collection strengthens its sartorial identity by using a graphic play on the Canali name as an all-over print on the cotton-linen button-up shirts and the silk ties.

CanaliFurthermore, Dynamism is a place of contrasts; a source of vitality. Colors become bolder, ranging from green to burnt Sienna. The button-up shirts are styled as jackets, sneakers in houndstooth fabric, and outerwear is made of a series of threads in multiple variations of a single color woven together to create unique multidimensional tones. This same dynamism embellishes the knitwear as well, by using a jacquard play on the Canali name either as a center detail or all over the piece.

Steadiness is a symbol of a sartorial heritage whose roots reach beyond time and trends. Colors are pastel and luminous, and blazers are deconstructed to only two layers of canvas. The sunglasses echo the collection by mimicking its colors and rounded bold shapes. The frames are not flat, but rather have an embossed texture that resembles the jacquard detailing of the knitwear.

Lastly, Inspiration, a room that evokes feelings of lightness, leisure and freedom. It is the season of jersey blazers, slip on shoes in sartorial fabrics, and travel accessories like lightweight goatskin bags and titanium sunglasses. Breaking from the daily routine, He picks ethereal colors like rose and dusty grey, and chooses to wear essential clean lines.