FROM OUR JANUARY ISSUE: DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENTS, EAST COAST
The entire MR team is proud to present our January 2024 issue. Haven’t gotten your copy, yet? Feel free to page through a digital copy at Issuu, and we’ll continue to post individual stories on MR-mag.com. If you haven’t been getting MR in print, be sure that you are on our mailing list for future issues by completing this form.
It’s been a while since we’ve done a roundup of contemporary stores, but we’re happy to report we’ve found some that should definitely be on your retail radar. To come up with the list we divided the country at the Mississippi into East and West, then we excluded the major markets, and all the stores you already know. We also looked for retailers who had a point of view and who used it to present their assortments. Customer engagement and social media interaction were also important. Finally, we sought stores that carried labels that we had not heard of because we love discovering new brands. If you think your store should be in the next roundup, please email us at john.jones@wainscotmedia.com or michael.macko@wainscotmedia.com, or drop a comment below.
CITY WORKSHOP MEN’S SUPPLY CO.
104 BAKER STREET
MAPLEWOOD, NJ 07040
(973) 577-2013
CITY WORKSHOPMSC.COM
OWNERS: ROGER STEVENS & JOSEFINA RUIZ
When did you open your store?
We opened City Workshop in 2015, and have relocated twice to larger locations.
Why open a new store?
We were tired of our corporate America jobs, and we were looking for what was next. We had a passion for shopping, specifically for ourselves and that’s how we got to clothing. We knew we didn’t want to sell bespoke clothing, so we went with tried and true denim, a staple in folks’ wardrobes for over 100 years. But we wanted to take it even further with raw and selvedge denim from the USA, Japan, and other countries around the world.
How do you choose the brands you carry?
Denim is the core of our brands. We choose brands that have synergy with our denim collection. This is when our own personal style comes into play. Meaning, it’s easy to throw on a flannel shirt with a pair of 21oz selvedge denim but I might change it up and throw on a cashmere sweater. That’s the way we have to curate because everyone is not into heavyweight denim. Many of our brands you won’t find locally. And they are usually independent, small brands like Freenote Cloth, Rogue Territory, and 3Sixteen.These brands are part of the denim world subculture.
How do you find/discover new brands?
The usual suspects: trade shows, showrooms, and lots of online research. We get recommendations from our customers. Sometimes we might see someone walking down the street and what they’re wearing might fit into our wheelhouse and we’ll ask what brand they’re wearing.
What is your best-selling category?
Denim. Our denim is from all over the world and the brands we carry are not available everywhere.
How do you identify your store?
It’s a denim shop with classic American heritage styles.
Do you do more business in-store or online?
We do more business in-store because we are situated in the center of our community, which generates lots of foot traffic. We love the fact that people can touch, feel, and try on clothes. It’s very tactile. We are also a 30-minute train ride from NYC to Maplewood, so a lot of people travel to the shop to see it in person. For us, online business is gravy, but we show it the same love as our brick-and-mortar customers.
How involved are you and your store in the local community?
We are very involved with our community. We’ve mentored, spoken at business clubs, and hosted young people on how to pursue their entrepreneurial dreams. We give to many of the local causes. We participate in local activities and events that have a give-back component for schools and nonprofits.
What is the biggest challenge and the advantages of being an independent retailer?
Cash flow is always a challenge especially when embarking on new endeavors. We have the mentality that there is no such thing as “set it and forget it.” Since we are in a walkable community, we have people who stop by every other day and the question is always “What’s new?” We always have to be on our “A” game when curating so that our customers don’t get bored. It’s a gift and a curse, but our return customer rate is high.
The advantages: We didn’t anticipate meeting so many different people from customers to creators, town officials, and other business owners from all over the world. People from all walks of life come into our shop. We’re in a town of creatives, which is really cool. When you love what you do, you are not really working.
Is there anything else you’d like to add?
We were able to open a women’s shop in 2022. We designed our second varsity jacket from Golden Bear. We are thinking about a T-shirt line and possibly some athleisure wear, too. The future’s looking bright and we are happily walking towards it with open minds.
Top: City Workshop store owners and denim heads, Josefina Ruiz and Roger Stevens. Above: A look at some of the denim assortment and plaid shirts from City Workshop.
VESTIS CLOTHING, LTD.
4415 BUTLER STREET
PITTSBURGH, PA 15201
(412) 784-1112
VESTISPGH.COM
OWNER: PHIL ROMAGNI
When did you open your store?
September 15th, 2015, eight and a half years ago.
Why open a new store?
I had worked in pharmaceutical sales and was looking for a change, I had some money saved up and decided to open a store.
How do you choose the brands you carry?
I like to select brands that have style autonomy.
How do you find/discover new brands?
During Covid it was online, as everything was, looking at websites, especially from Japan as well as Instagram, basically going online at night and going down the fashion rabbit holes. Now that Covid is over, I am excited to start going to shows again: the ones I find most successful for me are in NYC and Paris, shows like Welcome Edition and Man/ Woman.
What is your best-selling category?
Shirts. The sizing is easier than pants, so they’re an easy purchase for most men.
How do you identify your store?
Vintage-inspired contemporary. I like things that would not have looked out of place 80 years ago.
Do you do more business in-store or online?
By far in store. 90% of the business online is necessary, but I would say I spend 50% of my time buying product, 40% on selling and customer service, and 10% on everything else, including the website.
How involved are you and your store in the local community?
Very. I am in the nascent Lawrenceville neighborhood of Pittsburgh, and we have an organization of local businesses called the Lawrenceville Corporation; we organize neighborhood events.
What is the biggest advantage of being an independent retailer?
Being nimble enough to switch things up when I want and to take risks with the assortment by introducing new brands to the market.
Above: Phil Romagni of Vestis in Pittsburgh’s Lawrenceville neighborhood. Whimsical merchandising at Vestis Clothing Ltd.
PLAIN GOODS
17 EAST SHORE ROAD
NEW PRESTON, CT 06777
(860) 868-0280
PLAIN-GOODS.COM
OWNERS: MICHAEL DEPERNO & ANDREW FRY
When did you open your store?
We opened in a charming 700-square-foot cottage in 2015. Four years later, we relocated across the street to the historic Pavilion Hall, which we restored, and opened the doors in May of 2019.
Why open a new store?
Plain Goods was the outcome of Michael DePerno’s background in retail and interior design and my history working in PR/Marketing for fashion brands. We share an appreciation for a similar aesthetic and saw an opportunity in the market for what is now Plain Goods.
How do you choose the brands you carry?
Thoughtfully. We are very considered as to what lines we bring into Plain Goods. Brand philosophy, craftsmanship, design, and fabrication are important aspects of what we consider. How and where these goods are being produced is equally important from environmental and ethical perspectives.
How do you find/discover new brands?
We’re always researching new lines, makers, and designers. We attend fashion trade fairs and showrooms around the world including NYC, Paris, Copenhagen, Milan, and Florence. Recommendations from friends and customers. Traveling always offers a perfect opportunity to discover new lines.
What is your best-selling category?
Clothing is our lead category. Our Plain Goods label knitwear, footwear, and tailored clothing are made in Scotland, Italy, Japan, and Portugal. These items are designed in-house and are unique to Plain Goods. Our curated collections of Antique & Vintage furnishings are another vibrant sector of our business. Many interior designers come to us as a resource for their projects.
How do you identify your store?
We consider what we do as timeless.
Do you do more business in-store or online?
Our online business is robust, but in-store undeniably engages all of the senses and invokes a highly personal customer experience.
How involved are you and your store in the local community?
We participate in numerous local charities and encourage local businesses and nonprofits to share their literature in the foyer of the building. We are also a great resource for local referrals of all kinds.
What is the biggest challenge and the advantages of being an independent retailer?
The biggest challenge is managing such a large operation, while the advantages are endless. But having the freedom to continually express our creative vision is top of the list.
Top: Michael DePerno, left, and Andrew Fry, proprietors of Plain Goods. Above: The impeccably curated interior of Plain Goods. An assortment of English transferwear.
TABOR
421 PROVIDENCE ROAD
CHARLOTTE, NORTH CAROLINA 28207
(980) 207-4860
TABORCLT.COM
OWNER: LAURA VINROOT POOLE & PERRY POOLE
When did you open your store?
2015
Why open a new store?
We are lucky to be the “younger brother” of Capitol and Poole Shop, our sister stores here in Charlotte, as well as a new Capitol out at Brentwood Country Mart [in Santa Monica, Calif.] as of 2019. With the support of our women’s business, a men’s shop was a logical next step to provide the same service and discovery of designers that our women’s team has done for over 25 years.
How do you choose the brands you carry?
Our main rubric is quality and beauty. We often are driven by making sure that price point matches the quality and take pride in keeping the point of view timeless. I want a 24-year-old and a 74-year-old to buy the same things. It should feel new and exciting to both.
How do you find/discover new brands?
We are in the fortunate position to have tons of designers and brands reach out to us constantly and we use our past experiences and travels to be a good guide for what we bring into the shop. We won’t make a decision based purely on trend or sell-through reports. We want to love the brands, believe in the story, and support those designers who put value and beauty first.
What is your best-selling category?
Men know the importance of a good shirt, and sport shirting is overall our best seller. Our collaboration with American shirtmaker Gitman Brothers is up there in the tally marks, as is Sunspel for the more polo or T-shirt driven guys.
How do you identify your store?
As most probably feel, we don’t love to limit our description to one style, but we often refer to what we do as “American Sportswear,” but with many interpretations of that, whether it be Italian, French, Danish, or Japanese designers. We carry suits, we carry raw denim, we have elements of Ivy and also street/function. We aren’t fashion-driven but do have some “fashion brands.” At the same time, you can always buy Italian toothpaste and British shoes: Not because they are fancy, but because they are the best (in our opinion).
Do you do more business in-store or online?
In store. We are lucky in that way. We get to truly know our customer and build our online community usually through a store experience first. But to be clear, we take all comers, no matter how they find us.
How involved are you and your store in the local community?
We are situated in one of Charlotte’s oldest neighborhoods in a 1920s bungalow house. From placement, architecture, and hospitality, we are very much a part of the community. With a coffee shop in the front-of-house, as well as a neighboring art gallery, we hope to be a hub for those who appreciate what we are all about and educate those who are interested in something more.
What is the biggest challenge and the advantages of being an
independent retailer?
Hiring good people is always a challenge but we have been lucky to have had many strong teams in our years of business. Our advantage is being able to represent ourselves daily with our community and clients. We get to host every person who comes to us and serve them to the best of our ability while celebrating the designers we have added to our family.
Is there anything else you’d like to add?
We are looking forward to celebrating 10 years in business soon and we are re-launching Tabor Tailored, our in-house suiting program, in Spring/Summer 2024.
Top: The chic owner of Tabor, Laura Vinroot Poole. Above: An interior view of the store. An assortment merchandised by lifestyle.