FROM OUR JANUARY ISSUE: IT’S UP TO YOU NEW YORK, NEW YORK
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The cancellation of January’s Project New York* event and the fledgling Society show were mere symptoms of change that’s been coming for a while. How is it that the center of the United States fashion industry is no longer the thriving menswear market it once was, kicking off the nation’s trade show season? Although the pandemic spurred things on, it certainly wasn’t the cause.
Says Peregrine Showroom’s Jennie Arnau, “Once people learned to work virtually, traffic declined. When the trade shows tried to come back, it was hard to convince a brand to spend $5,000 or more to come here, and it snowballed from there.”
Don Wechsler, of New York’s Best Menswear Show, returning to the Park Central Hotel in January, points out that “During Covid, Dallas was the only operating venue. New York still had lingering restrictions, which made it less desirable, so buying habits changed. But New York is, after all, New York, and its attraction is not just the shows, but the showrooms, restaurants, and entertainment.”
Douglas Michael from menswear brand Crwth is gathering some contemporary brands for a market week event called Empire. He points out, “The Chicago Collective was the first to make a comeback (post-pandemic). That quickly changed the dynamic for buyers and sellers from that point on. Chicago was always a less expensive show and sits in the country’s center. From then on, it became the number-one show for both exhibitors and buyers. Buyers are coming back to New York, but more for the multi-brand showrooms. Jennie Arnau took the initiative to start United Men’s Fashion Association (UMFA), gathering multi-brand showrooms, tradeshows, and PR companies to boost NYC.”
Fellow UMFA pioneer Katie Liu, of Black Dog 8 showroom, notes, “We’re seeing more buyers return each season. You can’t beat the great energy, even if traffic can get annoying. (This season we’re putting together a subway map specific to the popular brand/showroom routes.) Retailers who buy luxury, high quality, and designer brands, or emerging and contemporary brands, should all come to New York.”
Retail Viewpoint
Retailers have mixed opinions on the viability of restoring New York Market Week. Robby Miller from Miller Bros in Atlanta was in New York for pre-market in December and is trying not to come back in January. “The Chicago Collective under one roof makes it just too easy. In NYC, no matter how I schedule appointments, I find myself spending hours in endless taxis going uptown/downtown, then up and down again. The Javits show was dying anyway and most of the downtown shows are too trendy for our market. But since not all brands are ready in December, returning to New York might be inevitable.”
In contrast, David Rubenstein, from Rubensteins New Orleans, is planning to be at New York market in January for the first time in a while. “Many Italian brands are showing there, and the timing is right for Southern stores. We need more transitional weights that are hard to find in December. The revival of a New York market depends on how many Italian brands lead the way.”
Says BJ Stringham at UWM in Salt Lake City, “We don’t cover the New York market because Chicago has it all, plus it’s closer and more convenient. We no longer carry the big luxury labels that we once did. I know many merchants love being wined and dined in NYC and Milan by the big luxury brands but that’s about ego. We finally decided if the brands we helped build are selling direct-to-consumer, we really don’t need them.”
Says Murry Penner from M. Penner in Houston, “The buying season is becoming more fragmented and can be a strain on specialty stores that don’t have numerous buyers, DMMs, and GMMs on corporate budgets. The expense is not just actual cost but also missed selling days. Right now, we shop in October, December, January, April, June and July. Crazy!”
The UMFA, officially incorporated as a not-for-profit, is working to promote the New York market and encourage showrooms and trade shows to work together on unified market dates. Since all things fashion are cyclical, we’re betting on a New York City comeback!
*Editor’s note: At press time, Informa’s “Project Presents: In Your Neighborhood” event had not been announced.
Photo by Tatiana Fet.
