FROM OUR JANUARY ISSUE: WOMEN TO WATCH – JENNIE ARNAU, PEREGRINE SHOWROOM
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Your background? How did you build a successful business as a rep for contemporary brands?
I was born and raised in Greenville SC, went to college in Missouri, and then headed straight to NYC to pursue theater. To make ends meet, I started working at The Gap and then at Charivari, where I fell in love with a ton of wonderful people. Selma Weiser shared an excitement and passion for the business that was truly contagious.
I also worked at Giorgio Armani and Helmut Lang before switching to wholesale, first with Denise Williamson and then on my own. I’ve had Peregrine Showroom for almost 16 years; starting with two collections, I now have 14, which I think is the right number.
How do you discover the brands you represent?
Usually, by referrals. For example, my designers and industry friends will pass along brands if they think I’d like the aesthetic and the people. Or else I might be walking around Pitti Uomo, and a collection somehow speaks to me. Most of the brands I rep are European.
Can you define contemporary? Is there a common denominator among the brands you select?
Yes, but it’s hard to explain. Most often, the collection has an element of tradition/heritage/authenticity (think Filson, Red Wing, Barbour) combined with an independent attitude. Contemporary consumers are often younger and more open to new ideas. They don’t stick with tight, stretchy jeans for 10 years just because everyone’s wearing them. They enjoy testing what’s new.
If new doesn’t seem to be working, how long do you give it?
I work with a lot of brands that are just getting off the ground, so it takes time. You must be willing to lose money for two or three years before you make any. And sometimes, when you’re launching a brand, it just doesn’t feel right. It’s not the designer, it’s not the rep: the marriage just isn’t working.
If it’s people I truly love and a concept I really believe in, I’ll give them as long as they give me. But if they’re impatient or unwilling to listen to a bit of direction as it concerns the U.S. market, it’s often better to part ways sooner rather than later.
How’s recent business?
It’s okay, and in some cases, better than okay. The contemporary business is small: maybe 80 stores across the country. But add to that the many traditional stores finally realizing that they need to go younger, and the potential is growing. Unfortunately, few contemporary merchants or brands are making big bucks these days. But if the store is unique, reflecting the personality of the owners, and if the owners have reached out to connect with like-minded clients (via social media, advertising, and in-store events), they can be very successful.
What can be done to reunite/re-energize the New York men’s market?
In order to bring back NYC as the center of men’s fashion, we need a new kind of trade show, different from any we’ve had in the past. We also need exciting evening events to create a sense of community. We need to bring back the fun, the way the New York market was 25 years ago. Of course, to do this, we need core designers to invest in and support an innovative trade show concept that might take some time to build.
The UMFA [See “It’s Showtime,” p. 34] has been working on this lately; interested parties should contact me.
What have you learned from your 35 years in this business?
Two things come to mind: you can’t do it on your own; we all need mentors, and we should ask for help as needed; and nothing works out if you’re not nice!