FROM OUR LATEST ISSUE: RALPH AURIEMMA, PAUL STUART–MASTER OF INSPIRATION
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We’ve been sharing profiles from February’s Top Clothing Merchants story, “Still Selling Suits!” With hybrid workplaces the norm and corporate dress codes an anachronism, how are some merchants still selling so many suits and sport coats? Here, they share some secrets.
I challenge anyone who loves fine menswear to venture into Paul Stuart on Madison Avenue and not be stunned by the plethora of beautiful clothing. The fabrics, the colors, the unexpected combinations: unique, luxurious, truly breathtaking.
The guy responsible for this magic is Ralph Auriemma, hired by Cliff Grodd in 2007 to develop a youthful collection for Paul Stuart. Called Phineas Cole, it was to be Paul Stuart’s errant nephew: rooted in tradition but naughtier and edgier.
Clearly, Auriemma has nailed it! Much admired in industry circles, both here and abroad, he exudes confidence without arrogance. As Paul Stuart’s creative director, he works nonstop, loves what he does, and happily shares his extensive knowledge of fashion history. “I read a lot,” he confides. So much of what we sell is inspired by the past.”
He shows me around the store with endless energy. “All the colors of the sweaters that you see here were dyed for us based on autumn leaves! Sapphire, cranberry, burnt orange: I scooped up leaves, put them in a Ziplock bag, and FedExed them to a factory that dyes yarns. We use these colors for solid Shetlands and Fair Isles—all exclusive to us.”
He shows me a coral paisley corduroy suit with purple lining, outerwear based on a WWI military officer’s coat, and silk eveningwear in vintage art deco patterns. “Every season there’s new,” he notes with pride, adding that his eveningwear and footwear are also sold at Saks, Neiman Marcus, and Nordstrom.
Auriemma started his fashion career as a stock boy after high school. “As a kid, I had no interest in anything. I lived with my grandfather in Brooklyn; he was a truck mechanic at the Flatbush Terminal. He insisted I get a job; when I couldn’t find one, he put me to work unloading heavy bricks out of train cars.
“As a teenager, I needed a suit for a school photo, so my aunt took me to a
local men’s store where I picked out a charcoal DB model. The walls of the
store were decorated with photos from 1930s movies. I became fascinated with movie stars like Cary Grant and Fred Astaire. I read all about them and fell madly in love with the elegant clothing from that era. That was the beginning. I had found my calling.”
Out of high school, Auriemma had numerous retail and wholesale jobs. He worked without pay for a NJ/Philadelphia rep for Tallia and Givenchy, packing bags and cutting swatches. From there, he worked for a store owner who would take him into Manhattan for buying trips. His next job was showroom trainee: His boss would take him to Italy for the fabric shows. He stayed at that job for nine years, then worked with an agent selling Incotex and Borelli.
Then came the big time. “Ralph Lauren was looking for someone to develop fabric; the mills had recommended me. I met with Jerry Lauren about 10 times: he liked me but wasn’t sure I was Purple Label material. He wanted me to spend 15 minutes with Ralph. So dressed in my best navy chalk-striped DB suit, I walked into Ralph’s office; two hours later, I had the job. We have so much in common beyond our love for clothing.
We’re both New Yorkers, love the Yankees and Hollywood film stars, and are unafraid of hard work and long hours. I stayed with Ralph for nine years and then moved to Paul Stuart, where I created a younger collection with sartorial flair, styles like a one-button peak lapel sport coat with purple deco stripe, slim flat-front trousers, spiffy spread-collar shirts. Today, Phineas Cole is 20 percent of our volume and growing.”
Ralph admits the best part of his job is visiting the factories. “Creating beautiful product is a joy; selling it is tougher. It’s warm when it’s supposed to be cool and cold when it should be warm. In addition to uncooperative weather, there’s everything else distracting shoppers these days: the news, the wars, the politics, the crime rate. Retailing is not for the faint of heart.”
On recent price increases, Auriemma is concerned but not alarmed. “There are always excuses for raising prices: the war, the electricity, fewer sheep…. Today’s prices are crazy, and of course it affects us. But I’m not trading down or compromising quality in any way. In the end, it would come back to haunt us. Our customers expect, and deserve, the best.”
