by Stephen Garner

Iceberg’s creative director James Long pumped up the volume this season as he unleashes a fall/winter 2021 collection that channels the carefree eccentricity and angst of the 1990s Brit Pop, underground rap, and acid rock scenes.

Punctuated by 3-D quilting and jacquard, ironic zips, gathered details, and graphics re-interpreted for the world of luxury sport, unisex looks take center stage in a live-streamed show aired during Milan’s Digital Fashion Week this weekend.

A sign of the times, this season’s womenswear selections culminate in a new, sporty sophisticated segment that pays homage to ‘90s raver silhouettes, retro styles, athletic stripes, and the high-end wool check tailored suits that arose from the late-20th century fashion scene.

Heeding traditional codes, ever-evolving athletic leisurewear becomes softer and more feminine and in turn, luxury knitwear embraces sports elements. Throughout the collection, a palette of muted primrose, egg-shell creams, and greys is electrified by acid pink in order to energize a new, minimal silhouette.

Menswear is amped up too, as the irreverence of ‘90s rap culture weaves itself into the collection via utilitarian closure details, contrasting tech-meets-knit textures, and 3-D puffer detailing. Sportswear is set ablaze by an all-new heavy metal Iceberg label doused in racecar shades of black, red, and yellow.

Infusing a dose of levity into the collection, Peanuts cartoon characters Snoopy and Woodstock are emblazoned onto ribbed-collared and oversized sweaters, underscoring Iceberg’s enduring flair for incorporating pop icons into the world of luxe knitwear.