ISAIA PRESENTED “COSÌ PARLÒ ISAIA” DURING MILAN FASHION WEEK

by Julian Randall



Alongside the men’s collection, the Neapolitan brand Isaia presented is first women’s collection during an event that paid tribute to the writer Luciano De Crescenzo.

The collection, inspired by “Così parlò Bellavista”, dove into the intellectual and sentimental Napoli that De Crescenzo depicted, blending irony and depth. At its core lied the value of ideas as a driving force for exchange and transformation: the runway became a bridge between cultural islands, a space where stories intertwined and thoughts converged, much like the famous “hall of ideas” envisioned by the author.

“Luciano De Crescenzo was not just a writer but a cultural mediator. Through his works, he made complex concepts accessible, bringing them to life with brilliant simplicity,” says Gianluca Isaia, CEO of the brand. “With this collection, we aim to celebrate his spirit of curiosity, humanity, and love for knowledge.”

The Circolo Filologico in Milan, one of Italy’s oldest cultural centers, turned into

a literary salon inspired by Bellavista’s home. The space was divided into small corners, evoking the iconic scene where Rosetta used books to create new environments. Quotes and phrases from De Crescenzo’s work accompanied the presentation, creating a dialogue between fashion and literature.

The Isaia Fall/Winter 2025 collection opened with bold, masculine, and warm colors: burgundy, red, light and dark gray, followed by camel, cognac, chocolate, peacock blue, and cream. The shapes and volumes were soft. Jackets, duffle coats and maxi coast  stood out in new proportions and detai

ls, crafted from luxurious fabrics like double cashmere, alpaca, and bouclé. Tailored jackets in exclusive Isaia fabrics were paired with fluid trousers for a contemporary look, while cashmere knitwear, featuring intarsia patterns or three-dimensional textures, were designed for the winter season. Nappa and suede bombers, shirt-jackets, tailored blazers, and a red duffle coat, completed the collection. 

Alongside its menswear, Isaia debuted womenswear. The models wore garments that combined tailoring and contemporary femininity. 

For women, feminine and bold colors borrowed from the men’s wardrobe, including plum, tea rose, gray, camel, tobacco, and chocolate. Black was reserved for eveningwear. The silhouettes, elegant and enveloping, combined Neapolitan tailoring with masculine inspirations, featuring blazers, oversized coats, and trousers with a men’s cut. Knitwear included a double cashmere maxi cape – a special item from the women’s offering.

“In a world where fashion often chases fleeting trends, only to be swept away by the next, we face a choice: age out or become timeless. We choose to become timeless.”, says creative director, Damiano Biella. “We’re inspired by Luciano’s way of honoring tradition not by freezing it in the past, but by making it dynamic, universally relevant, alive and timeless. It’s about a spirit that never fades, about style that resonates across generations. Like Napoli. Like De Crescenzo. Like Isaia.”

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