MOMENTOUS MENSWEAR FROM MONDAY NIGHT’S MET GALA
By now you’ve probably already heard that we had a little party here in New York City last night. The fashion industry’s version of the Oscars/Senior Prom/Halloween Bash aka The Met Gala kicked off The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute’s latest exhibit, “Karl Lagerfeld. A Line of Beauty.”
Now, I’ll be honest, I’ve had my differences with the Met Gala over the years. It has become a bit of a circus. As one friend of mine pointed out a few years ago, after all, the word “costume” is in the institution’s name, so one would expect that the clothing might supersede the somewhat traditional red carpet fare. Still, I’d always hoped that there might be a return to civility and decorum.
After this morning, though, I’ve had a change of heart. I was lucky enough to listen to Vanessa Friedman, the Fashion Director, and Chief Fashion Critic of The New York Times being interviewed on WNYC, our local public radio station. She explained that not only is the gala the Costume Institute’s major fundraiser of the year but that the Institute is the only curatorial department that must pay for itself! Apparently, there is still some distrust that fashion can be art. That, even though the “Heavenly Bodies” show of clothing inspired by the Catholic Church was the most visited show the Met has ever hosted! Friedman went on to point out that, after all, the museum’s fashion department is in the basement. That says something about priorities right there.
Having learned that, I have had a course correction. Now I say, “Let’s party!” Bring on the extravagant, the outlandish, and the downright foolish. If Anna Wintour and her crew of merry fashionistas can use this first Monday in May to generate money and attention for this institution, then let’s make it as outsized as possible.
Now, all of that said, I have to say that last night’s presentation left me feeling a little underwhelmed. (No, your fearless MR Fashion Editor did not attend in person. I watched the gala via Vogue’s webcast from the safety of my own iPad. It was fun to watch the clothing in movement, like watching a designer collection on the runway rather than just looking at still images.) Sure, there were some amazing clothes on the steps leading to the museum (and some particularly frightening moments involving high-heels and long gowns on those steps), but, maybe a little more than usual, and maybe because this was about the work of Lagerfeld, most of the attention was on the women’s wear. Also, again because this was Lagerfeld, the palette of the evening was black-and-white, so things got a little severe. There was a lot that seemed just awkward and forced, not playful or expressive.
The warm and fuzzy moments of the evening were when both model Karli Kloss and retired tennis pro Serena Williams both announced pregnancies during red carpet interviews. I was also very pleased to see the recently released basketball player Brittney Griner attending the event with her wife.
Now, as always, there was a lot of men’s clothing that I didn’t love: Some where guys didn’t take a chance, and others that were just not right. I’ll let other websites handle that, but I will say, keep an eye out for Pedro Pascal’s shorts outfit and “Succession” star Jeremy Strong’s leprechaun-worthy look (I know, I know! It’s a costume!). Jared Leto’s cat suit — no I mean literally he was wearing a cat costume — to my eyes couldn’t have been more adorable. On the other hand, I also have three cats, so I would. Finally, not for the faint of heart, Lil Nas X nailed the “naked” trend of the season, wearing barely anything (I’m not jealous of that body. Nope. Not one bit. Not me.) but a pile of silver glitter and a silver cat mask.
My favorites? Brian Tyree Henry seemed to channel just the right amount of royal elegance, especially as we head into next weekend’s fashion spectacle, the coronation of Britain’s Charles the III. Shai Gilgeous-Alexander’s outfit took the basic principles of a classic Chanel suit and made it masculine and wearable. Tommy Hilfiger said that not only was his suit made from vintage Chanel fabric (Sustainability? Check!), but that Lagerfeld himself had given him the shirt, complete with a detachable collar. Jonathan Simkhai nailed the theme with what felt to me like a decidedly 1970s retro vibe. Finally Stefon Diggs. Just wow. Elegance personified.