MOSCHINO MIXES ART WITH OLD HOLLYWOOD FOR FALL ’21 MEN’S COLLECTION

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Designer Jeremy Scott released his new fall 2021 menswear collection for Moschino on Thursday.

The collection takes wardrobe essentials—from formal coats to motorcycle jackets to waistcoats—and enlivens them with a painter’s hand. Post-Impressionism, say hello to sartorial panache with a dash of Old Hollywood cinema.

The collection begins with a series of jackets, including topcoats, perfectos, carcoats, and parkas. Painted free-form prints, in the visual realm of Cézanne and Gauguin, appear on lapels, double-breasted closures, pockets, and plackets. The effect renders each garment as an easel, and every piece is thus finished with a balance of shadow and highlight, motion and emotion, and the conceptual and the tangible.

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Coats give way to printed sweaters and animated blazers, ranging in treatment from grayscale argyle to lively, velvet-effect shading. A pair of three-piece suits, waistcoats included, wink to the nostalgic silver screen stylings of Humphrey Bogart, Dana Andrews, and Edward G. Robinson. There is even a shawl-lapel tuxedo, glimmering with a nocturnal palette; those deep lavenders, midnight cobalts, and muted noirs that blend together to create a dreamy evening vignette. These silhouettes also recall something of a midcentury Tinseltown thrum, only updated for the now.

The lineup then morphs into daytime, with paint-effect tracksuits, cargo jackets, hoodies, sweatpants, and denim, each rendered with brushstroke motifs. All approach clothing as a canvas; a puffer, for example, is in fact a streamlined overcoat that has been printed to mimic volume and seams.

All in all: a wearable tableau vivant, spirited by Moschino’s intrinsic irony yet softened by the moment—a painter, after all, often works best in solitude.