NY MRKET SS16: DIRECTOR’S CUT

by William Buckley

After a week of fashion shows, presentations and parties courtesy of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, it’s down to business. New York market kicked off yesterday under a shining sun and a bright blue sky. As with every market, we started close to home, at MRket, who decked out the Javits in lively summer colors for SS16. Michael Macko’s theme this season was Art with a capital A, and installations throughout the show floor featured artists including Andy Warhol, Vincent Van Gogh, and Jackson Pollock, with Macko’s personal picks from various of the show’s brands accompanying each.

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This season also included pop-up shops from noted Brooklyn home goods store, Beam, and Glitterati who offered a selection of coffee table books.

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As if that wasn’t enough, we had live interviews, the first set in our Menswear Movers series, with some of menswear’s most influential people, including Macy’s’ Durand Guion, United Arrows’ Mr. Kamoshita, menswear blogger Moti Ankari, and senior editor of V Magazine, Katharine Zarrella, which will be posted here in the coming weeks. Watch out for them.

As always at the MRket show, the Italian section presented some of the best of Made in Italy, the Modern Prep section sponsored by Southern Proper was like walking through an air-conditioned Nantucket or Cape Cod, and the Vanguards Gallery, curated by Macko, presented some of the most exciting menswear brands of the moment. So many brands, and such little time, but some of my standouts included below.

Res Ipsa
This accessory brand, at the front of the Vanguards Gallery, was created by two lawyers from Georgia, and offers outstanding footwear and bags in intricate embroidery and prints.

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Capri
Knit sport coats with whimsical details like popsicle trim alongside colorful shirts in floral prints are the strengths of this Italian brand.

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Gallotti
Although primarily well known for their shearling, Gallotti’s SS16 offering features innovative use of nylon blocked with suede and leather in both sport coats and outerwear.

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Galet
Complete with their very own food truck-style installation, this French footwear brand’s forte is the luxury loafers it makes just outside Paris.

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Fox Umbrellas
“Keeping you dry since 1868”, this company has nearly 150 years experience in making what they call ‘brollies’ in London where the company was founded, offering what must be nearly infinite custom options.

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Richard Choi
With no intention to offend the Lego men pinned to the lapels, Choi’s featherweight sport coats stole the limelight. Made from shirting fabrics, the bottom of each is attached to a strip of heavy woven cloth to keep the shape in place.

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Bow-Tie
A Spanish footwear brand inspired by nineteenth century British nobility, Bow-Tie was another of the incredible selection of footwear brands at MRket this season.

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