NEW YORK MEN’S DAY: ADVANCING THE NARRATIVE

New York Men’s Day (NYMD) made a triumphant return to the New York Fashion Week calendar last week, celebrating its 21st season of being organized by Agentry PR and, this season, sponsored by Hilldun Corporation. Returning to Location05, a massive studio and event space located next to Hudson Yards, eight different emerging designers showed their wares, offering everything from styles that would look right at home on any designer retailer’s floor to some that were positively cerebral. 

Terry Singh

Singh, who is practically a veteran of NYMD at this point, showed once again that skirts, kilts, maxis—whatever you’d like to call them—aren’t just for women anymore. Although his style usually has a bit of a tailored, formal touch, we particularly liked this sportier version shown with a sweatshirt. Of course, if you’ve got it, flaunt it: this high-slit version is elegant, but still allows the wearer to show off all that time spent in the gym.

Y. Chroma

This collection is targeted to men “of a certain age” who don’t want to dress in the same-old-same-old but also don’t want to look like they’re dressing in their son’s “fits.” With an elegant yet rugged sense of texture and silhouette and a vibrant, tasteful color palette, we think designer Max Israel nailed it this season.

Jack Sivan

Elegant and sophisticated, Brooklyn-based designer Sivan starts with traditional tailoring, but then builds it into something with real flair. We particularly liked this draped, dramatic navy coat that somehow reminded us of the man from the Sandeman port bottle.

Landeros New York

Gender fluidity hasn’t gone away, but it sure has evolved in the last few seasons. Landros somehow manages to hit that perfect place where sex appeal meets rock and roll with all the glamor and drama of a red carpet. We are all for the fresh lilac pallette and, oh, to have the pecs and perfect skin to pull off those strapless tops.

Bulan

Remember what we said about conceptual? Bulan takes any basic ideas you may have had about knitwear and completely turns them upside-down and inside-out. While this presented collection was much more esoteric than what actually makes it into production, it’s still decidedly not your grandfather’s sweater.

the salting

 

I’d say this was, hands-down, my favorite collection of the day. I’ve been a fan of Michael Ward and Manel Garcia Espejo’s work since I was first introduced to them around two years ago, but I feel like this fall/winter collection (also shown at top) has seen the design duo evolve to a completely new place. There’s a sense of elegance and warmth that doesn’t quite leave the “weekend in the country” vibe of the brand behind. Bravo.

Tarpley

I couldn’t quite place it, but there was a decidedly 1980s/1990s vibe to this collection, yet it’s also futuristic, like costumes for a very elegant, sophisticated science fiction movie. But don’t get me wrong, all very salable and wearable for today.

Pas Une Marque

Here again, the collection strayed towards the conceptual, yet each one of the pieces—with an emphasis on volume, texture, and unexpected color—seemed very fresh and wearable. I suppose that’s what we would expect from a Parisian designer, bien sur! We are all in for this toile-like denim suit, above.