NEW YORK MEN’S DAY AUTUMN/WINTER 2024/25 PREVIEW

by John Russel Jones



New York Men’s Day officially kicks off New York Fashion Week this Friday, February 9th. The Agentry PR-produced event—presented by Hilldun Corporation—features eight designer presentations across two sessions: 10:30 AM – 12:00 PM and 4:30 PM – 6:00 PM, at Location 05, 450 West 31st St, on the 7th Floor. What can visitors expect to see this season? To preview the exciting event, here are some sketches and descriptions from the minds behind the creative menswear and genderless collections for the Autumn Winter 2024/25 season.

MORNING SESSION

Landeros New York

 

Andre Landeros Michel’s genderless collection debuts at NYMD this season, but the New York-based designer founded the brand in 2013. Each collection emerges from the music of his youth, a blend of goth, punk, new wave, and industrial music genres to inspire and initiate his design process. Exaggerated silhouettes and details derive inspiration from new wave album artwork and ’80s nightlife subcultures. A truly genderless, or agender collection, Landeros New York has a cult following, including celebrities Billy Porter, Jeremy Pope, Dashaun Wesley and musicians Neko Case, FisherSpooner, Fantasia, Moses Sumney, Honey Dijon, Greyson Chance, Bright Light Bright Light, and Cakes Da Killa. This season’s inspiration comes from a fusion of elegance and 1980s New Wave vibes influenced by the bands Arcadia and Scritti Politti. Drawing inspiration from the iconic silhouettes of the band members, this collection seamlessly blends the energy of the music era with a modern and sophisticated touch.

Sivan

Brooklyn-based designer Jack Sivan presents his three year old men’s tailored collection, also making his NYMD debut. He is a sustainable menswear designer whose work is inspired by traditional tailoring and is passionate about the craft of garment making, menswear, and its expanding definition, as well as sustainable manufacturing, which he believes is inherent in good design. Inspired by historic Savile Row and Neapolitan tailoring traditions, Sivan fell in love with men’s suiting. As a teen, he taught himself how to sew and created an upcycled bowtie company. He later received a formal arts education at the Rhode Island School of Design and began his career by making bespoke garments for a dedicated clientele. He is now expanding the brand’s scope by creating a ready-to-wear line centered around his twin passions of sustainability and tailoring. Inspired by the historical figure of the dandy, the Beau Brummel character, and a particular painting of Franz Schubert, Sivan examines how cultural associations shift between masculinity and femininity.

Terry Singh

New York-based menswear designer Terry Singh returns to NYMD this season for a third time. Singh, raised in the vibrant cultural mosaic of New York City, began his journey in the world of fashion during the late 1970s. With its eclectic mix of influences, the dynamic city served as the backdrop for his formative years and kindled his artistic vision. Singh’s life took an unexpected turn when he ventured into the heart of India and became a yogi high in the serene mountains. The transformative experience catalyzed Terry’s journey into the world of fashion. Upon his return to New York, his life’s mission had shifted, and he sought to translate the profound sense of liberation he experienced into the realm of fashion.

For the season’s inspiration, Singh says, “In the revelation that we embody everything, existing across all realms, I sought escape from the routine of the human world. Venturing to the Parambikulam Tiger Reserve in Kerala, India, I found myself by a stream, surrounded by the profound imprints of mighty tiger paws, a testament to their presence. For two days, I immersed myself in meditation within the stream, anticipating the transformative embrace of a tiger’s consumption. A desire to meld my essence with the majestic creature fueled my purpose. Yet, the tiger did not arrive, perhaps choosing not to partake in this unconventional communion. Returning to the bustling streets of NYC, I realized an unforeseen metamorphosis had occurred. Despite evading physical consumption, I had become the essence of the tiger. This collection resonates with the narrative of my odyssey, visually manifesting the metamorphosis that defines who I am today.”

Y.Chroma

Based in Portugal’s capital city of Lisbon, designer Max Israel focuses his Y.Chroma collection on male midlife re-invention, targeting a customer base typically comprising men aged 40 and above who have repeatedly dressed in forgettable shades of gray or navy blue. The brand steps in at the juncture when these individuals decide it’s time for a change. Recognized for its commitment to vibrant colors, European craftsmanship, and a fascination with unique textiles, the House of Y.Chroma sets itself apart as an educational brand. Transitioning from a monotonous wardrobe to one filled with confident colors is a journey, and the company aims to accompany its customers at every stage of the process. Acknowledging that midlife reinvention is a universal experience, Israel guides customers with frank discussions.

“We believe that choosing what to wear in the morning reflects the version of oneself one wants to present to the world. Our mission is for our customers to genuinely adore the transformation and the newfound confidence that comes with embracing their unique style,” says Israel.

AFTERNOON SESSION

Bulan

Designed by Beam Ratchapol Ngaongam of Bangkok, Thailand, and New York, New York, this collection, founded in 2023, returns to NYMD. Originally from Bangkok, the designer started his journey as a menswear designer but became torn between his love for knitting and his passion for sewing. He has since developed an expertise in 3D knitwear design, struck by the luxurious aspect that knitwear volume can offer. This collection is dedicated to Beam’s mother as a tribute to the sacrifices she made to give him a better life.

Pas Une Marque

Sean Coutts designs this six year old Parisian menswear collection, which is stocked in the Printemps department store and will debut at NYMD this season. The clothing is manufactured entirely in Peru, and the designer works with a variety of artists within each collection to tell its brand story. Pas Une Marque is heavily invested in its ‘why,’ driven by philosophy and seeking to promote a deeper sense of meaning. The brand bridges the gap between philosophy and fashion and intends to explore design, techniques, and craft that evoke questioning.

Tarpley

Tarpley Brooks Jones is a menswear designer who operates between Nashville, Tennessee, and New York City. This dual foundation, rooted in each location’s distinct values, forms the bedrock of Tarpley. It represents a harmonious union of practicality and idealism, intertwining a mission and a vision. This mission goes beyond the mere creation of captivating fashion; it is a commitment to propelling our world toward sustainable energy practices. The vision is to transcend the boundaries of fashion by utilizing creative energy to foster consciousness and spread positivity. This season’s intriguing inspiration? ANON: Maybe you see me, maybe you don’t.

the salting

Michael Ward and Manel Garcia Espejo, each seasoned fashion industry veterans, launched the salting in 2018 (The duo has recently been inducted into the CFDA as interim members). The collection includes menswear, women’s, and gender-neutral options and is carried in approximately 20 retail locations in the United States and Canada, including Bergdorf Goodman. Fabrications are globally sourced with sustainable mills and all tailored in America. This season’s collection is called On the Waterfront, taking inspiration from the 1954 film and its overall captivating power, grit, and sensitivity. The designers have focused their eyes on the dock workers and longshoremen who make up the backdrop of the movie, utilizing buffalo checks, plaids, salted/speckled tweeds, classic 1950s chalk stripes, and quilted mariners striped jersey. Sportwear pieces have taken on a tailored polish, featuring double-breasted blazers, structured waistband trousers with double pleats, workman’s shirt jackets, and their take on the classic longshoreman pea coat.