PAL ZILERI EXPLORES HUMAN ‘ENERGIES’ IN FALL ’19 COLLECTION

by Stephen Garner

Italian luxury menswear brand Pal Zileri unveiled its fall/winter 2019 collection on Monday, January 14 at a morning runway show at the Società del Giardino in Milan.

Creative director Rocco Iannone called his third collection for the Italian brand “Energie”, or Energies in English. “Nowadays, we cultivate extreme feelings,” said Iannone. “Exacerbated emotionality, which is not cloying sentimentalism, undoubtedly belongs to me as an Italian. As a creative person, however, I tend to sublimate my feelings, looking for harmony in contrasts, finding a personal link between distant suggestions. This is my idea of modern romanticism: a virtuous tension upon which I built the third chapter of my ongoing tale for Pal Zileri.”

In describing a manifold masculinity, this season Iannone has woven a net of references that merges sense and sensibility, baroque opulence and severity, the vernacular and new wave, suggesting that only in the balance between such opposites, humanism, as a means of progress, is to be found. The male-female dualism, which is also an opposition of strength and kindness, becomes instead a dialogue between couture and tailoring – different ways and rituals of interpreting the sartorial art.

The collection follows this path, creating a merge between thoughtful silhouettes and silky fabrications. Unexpected motifs create a surreal bestiary in the form of zoomorphic prints. Silks and brocades are mixed with wools, in an amalgamation of textures that is a blend of dense, pictorial and vibrant hues.

The clarity of the design is accentuated by the accessories, while the dialogue between the sexes is emphasized by the presence on the catwalk of female models, on high heels, wearing suits.