PAUL SMITH RETURNS TO PITTI UOMO FOR SPRING/SUMMER ’25

British designer Paul Smith returned to Pitti Uomo with a presentation at Villa Favard, an ornate 19th-century villa in the center of Florence known for its intricate frescoes and grand proportions. The villa was transformed into Bar Paul: a tribute to the Italian cafes that Paul frequented in London’s Soho district in the 1960s. Typically open all night, these cafes were a place for people to go after the Scene Club, Flamingo Club, and Whiskey-A-Go-Go closed for the evening. Naturally, they drew a bohemian crowd of musicians, artists, and designers who helped to make Soho the epicenter of the creative world at that moment in time. The presentation space was set up with cafe tables complete with ‘Bar Paul’ branded items, such as napkins, coffee cups, sugar packets, and matchboxes to evoke those after-hours meetups of Soho’s artistic circle. 

The collection expanded upon this theme with a pleasingly louche and tactile approach to tailoring. Ties were worn loosely knotted, paired with denim chore jackets and unstructured blazers in cotton canvas – a look that suggests an artist heading to dinner straight from a day’s painting in the studio. Suits are cut from classic houndstooth and Prince of Wales fabrics, bringing to mind London in the ’60s, while outerwear uses bold statement fabrics to eye-catching effect. One collection highlight – an oversized trench coat (top of page) – is constructed from a custom Italian cloth with an exploded pastel check design based on the Paul Smith Signature Stripe. Soho stalwarts Francis Bacon and Lucien Freud provide key inspiration, and this painterly influence was reflected back into the presentation space with art materials provided by Winsor & Newton. Artek provides seating throughout the venue in the form of their iconic Stool 60. 

The designer also announced an exciting new project coming in early 2025: a collaboration with US denim icon Lee. In the early 1970s, Smith began importing the brand’s painter pants to sell in his very first shop in Nottingham. That connection now comes full circle with a capsule of printed denim, jacquard trousers, woven tops, and T-shirts. 

IMAGE CREDITS: Styling – Julian Ganio, Casting – Ben Grimes Casting, Hair -  Stelios Chondros, and Make-Up – Mel Arte.