QUIET LUXURY IS STILL WITH US (THANK GOODNESS)
Fashion being cyclical, we should have known that when the “quiet luxury” movement was so succinctly expressed by the wardrobe of the hit television show Succession, it would only be a matter of time before something louder, more iconoclastic, and more—well—more would take over the runways and capture the attention of influencers and the consumers who follow them.
Dutch designer Duran Lantink sent wildly padded and shaped silhouettes down the runway that included animal prints mixed with camouflage, assless jeans (to be more precise, they completely exposed the model’s gluteus maximus), and one latex—but incredibly life-like top—that would have made any Playboy centerfold proud. Comme des Garçons had looks that wriggled, folded, and layered over each other to an almost musical effect. Rabanne’s Julien Doessena had lots of layered and furry/fuzzy effects that, as he put it, “It’s as if you’re normal on the outside, but nuts inside.” (No wonder I immediately thought of Virginia Woolf upon spotting the first look.)
That’s why it’s nice to see that some designers are still creating thoughtful clothes that, while expressing personality and individualism, follow the dictates of good quality and good taste.
The Salting
The Salting’s easy collection seems to have matured as design duo Michael Ward and Manel Garcia have focused on workmanship for Fall/Winter 2025. The brand has introduced its first sweater, a beautiful fisherman’s knit, handmade in New York City of 75/25 wool/cashmere, and it’s destined to become a classic. Other standouts include a blanket coat and poncho, as well as subtle details like a wool cap that has a rope detail on the back of the hat where typically a tuck strap might appear.
Loro Piana
While Loro Piana’s equestrian-inspired collection plays with the wider silhouette that seems destined to end up in men’s wardrobes before long, the Tyrolian silhouettes have a Bohemian air that may make one look less like a gentleman farmer and more like one of the figures in Caspar David Friedrich’s (whose paintings are the subject of an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art) German Romantic era landscapes. The earthy, rich fabrics and minimal silhouettes seem made for layering, formal enough for the office and are yet, somehow evocative of weekend spelunking. Don’t blame us if you suddenly start feeling the need to sing Climb Every Mountain.
Theory
Finally, the minimalist contemporary brand Theory has introduced a new collection for Spring called Motion Wool. When so many other brands have dropped their version of polyester commuter pants (and often the jackets and shirts to go with them), it’s refreshing to see this version made, at least partially, with nature’s original performance material, wool. The premium Italian wool is machine washable and wrinkle-resistant, offering breathability and stretch. The capsule includes pants, blazers, jackets, and a cap, perfect for travel. The jacket and pants also have a same-fabric pouch for compact storage. The collection launches today, and retails for $265 for pants, $295 for a shirt jacket, and $495 for a blazer.
