TRADE SHOW TIDBITS

The main buzz in Chicago: is Bruce Schedler really leaving his spot as Chicago Collective show director? Based on his youth and energy, no one quite believes it, but Bruce has acknowledged that, at the very least, he’s moving into more of a consulting role. That said, two things are sure: 1) Bruce will be very much missed by all, and 2) the show is in very capable hands with Monique and Danielle, both mentored by Bruce for many years and both much appreciated by Chicago Collective’s exhibitors and attendees.

Thanks to Bruce for creating and maintaining a five-star show for so many years! We wish him much happiness in his so-called retirement…

Party On! They did it again! How does the ITA keep finding the most interesting venues for partying? The underground music scene at the Hampton Social restaurant in Chicago was a homerun for the Italian Trade Agency and invited guests, many of whom were up on stage with the band well into the night. Even Mrs. Erica DiGiovancarlo, ITA’s new trade commissioner, showed off her impressive dance moves as the crowd partied on…

34 Heritage Tops It Off!

Known for its extensive collection of five pocket pants and jeans in trend-right fabrics and colors, 34 Heritage showed off its new sportswear at all the Fall ’24 trade shows. In Chicago, we had the pleasure of working with 34 Heritage president Arkun Durmaz and new CEO Burak Ovunc, in town to discuss the new collection.

Super-seller Richard Binder (recently joined by menswear veteran David Schuster) has made 34 Heritage the core denim brand in upscale independent stores across the country. The new sportswear collection comprises shirts in soft twills and lightweight denim ($158-$178 retail), blazers (knits and wovens, $245 and $295), overshirts and sweaters. MR favorite: the luxe corduroy shirt jackets to retail at $188.

Sanctuary at Roffe

Murray Roffe and Glen Schanen (at top) have just launched a new collection called Sanctuary, designed by Nicole Franklin (above). Many of the items are a blend of sustainably farmed cotton (from Portugal) blended with some stretch. We loved the shirt jackets ($195-$250 retail), the raw-edged blazer ($395), cool cargo pants (87% nylon, 13% elastane) and a very practical and sustainable ‘suit-in-a-bag’ at $495 retail. Welcome, Sanctuary, to Roffe’s roster of great brands!

Inspiration at Raffi

As a tribute to company founder Raffi Shaya, Karine, Limor and Shirley have come up with a fabulous collection of luxury knits, tagged with Raffi’s inspirational sayings and infused with his positive energy. He would be so proud of his daughters’ elevated group of detailed cashmere quarter zips and V-necks ($178) in 20 gorgeous colors, a cool popcorn stitch group, several full-zip and reversible styles, a fabulous array of knit scarves and much more. May Raffi’s energy and optimism continue to inspire us all.

Shirt Talk

Jimmy and Lynda Carpenter showed an array of beautiful shirts at the Southern Clothing Market in Charlotte. Among the best booked: the one-piece roll collar shirts by Marcello Sport at $65 cost. More great-looking shirts were seen at Claassen (made in Portugal); these are available either private label or branded at $45 cost for a suggested retail of $95-125 ($2 more for large sizes up to 5x). You will not find a nicer or harder working seller than Lynda Carpenter!

Stepping Out

In 2019, casual footwear was 55% of Johnston & Murphy’s footwear collection; today it’s 80%, with hybrid and athletic styles clearly fueling the business. Leather, suede and knit uppers with ribbed or EVA-reinforced soles continue to gain traction. The luxury part of the business (made entirely in Italy with notable handwork) is about 10 percent to total sales and growing.

It’s a Wrap

Cashmere knit scarves were hits at the Chelsey booth in Chicago ($88 cost, made in Germany), with Teresa Korine noting that understated, muted designs were out-booking flashy styles for fall ’24. The collection wholesales from $42-$90; specialty store merchants were buying up these toned-down sophisticated accessories to enhance their fall collections of Quiet Luxury apparel.

Customize It!

With a strong focus on customization, Ruth Graves outdid herself in Chicago with a collection that was unique and often personalized. Hot items were neckerchiefs and ascots, but ties and pocket squares also sold out.

Her success secrets:

*At a time when retailers are looking for exclusives, all her collections are limited editions. For example, Ruth just did a collaboration with Sam Glaser at Stitched that Juju Smith-Schuster, wide receiver for the New England Patriots, recently promoted in Vegas. She worked with Hal Lansky on reproducing archival images of Elvis and Lisa Marie, special keepsake items for his Memphis store. She works regularly with MLLeddy’s in Fort Worth on western-inspired custom designs, much of it based on artwork by John Ripps.

*She sells close to season (which many retailers appreciate) so that her booth at the February Chicago Collective featured both spring and fall ’24 designs.

*Minimums for custom designs are very reasonable. “I make my mills in Italy crazy, but they love the reorders,” Ruth confides.

Best Booked at Alan Paine:

The bold striped sweater (in photo) and numerous unique/special items from their Explorer collection, an outdoorsy range based on the adventurous life of English explorer George Mallory. For milder climates, Jim was selling cotton/merino blends in sweatshirt and quarter-zip models. Also booking well: a fall ’24 sport shirt collection that pairs well with the knitwear but also stands alone. Finally: some fabulous lightweight soft coats and sweater jackets (shackets?) in lightweight wool blends made for a strong and cohesive collection. (Joseph loved it!)

Talbott Tasting

It wasn’t just the wine bar that attracted crowds to the Robert Talbott booth in Chicago. The new team has figured out how to capture the original Robert Talbott DNA while updating the look and fit for a new generation. We loved the shirts ($225 to $295 retails, made in Europe), ties ($175, with cashmere at $225 and 7-folds at $295), and fabulous double-faced pocket squares at $95. However truth be told, thanks to the rich soils of Monterey County, we really loved the wine!