UNIQUELY BRITISH: TRADITION MEETS INNOVATION

There was something uniquely British in the air at Chicago Men’s Collective this season, with 43 UK companies exhibiting and others jostling for space. While the world is a challenging place right now, and the US (and the UK) are gearing up for potentially world-changing elections this year, the strength of the greenback against the British pound means that the UK is especially attractive to US (and Canadian) menswear buyers.

The modern “lounge suit,” as it is often called, was created on Savile Row in London in the late 19th century, but its origins date back to a former King Charles, King Charles II, who decreed that in the British court men should wear a long coat, a waistcoat, a cravat (the precursor of the modern necktie), a wig, knee breeches (pants in the US, or “trousers” in the UK) and a hat. Thankfully, long coats, wigs, and ties are no longer compulsory, but the UK remains the beating heart and soul of modern menswear.

This show saw an increased presence of quality worsted woolen fabrics from the UK, including Dormeuil (the brand has strong British roots on “The Row”), Harrison of Edinburgh, Holland & Sherry (also based on “The Row”), Huddersfield Fine Worsted showing with Gladson NYC and Scabal. The current King Charles, Charles III, would be especially proud of this as he founded Campaign for Wool as HRH The Prince of Wales.

New from the UK to the Collective this season was Service Works, represented by BlackWatch Agency alongside John Smedley and Peregrine Clothing, both manufacturing sustainable, high-quality menswear in the UK since the 18th century. Also new this season was Sunspel, a more recent addition to the menswear market from 1860!

Paul Smith showed the PS by Paul Smith Collection for the first time in Chicago. This is the first time in almost 30 years (since SEHM in Paris in the 1990s) that Sir Paul has shown at a trade event. The company was delighted with the results and saw many quality US and Canadian retailers who had always wanted to buy from the collection but, until now, had not been able to. Barbour was as high profile as ever, sponsoring lunches and the coat check as well as celebrating 30 years of its must-have Liddesdale Quilted jacket.

Despite the mild Chicago temperatures during the show, quality British knitwear and accessories were very popular this season with Johnstons of Elgin in Scotland, BCorp Certified Cashmere, Scott and Charters from Hawick (pronounced Hoick), Corgi from Wales, Joshua Ellis from Yorkshire and Harley of Scotland all represented by Kuehnerts agency. John Smedley’s Joyful Expression collection for AW24 featured comforting shades and cozy silhouettes designed to bring happiness and refined luxury to the everyday.

Traditional Goodyear welted footwear from Northamptonshire in England was all over the show, from Tricker’s and Sanders to Crockett and Jones, to name but three. Crockett and Jones described its collection as “classic and timeless style underpinned by understated luxury in which British Design plays a key role.” Sanders proudly showed off its new reverse suede apron boot, Chukka boot, and plain Gibson shoes in dark brown natural crepe soles, providing unparalleled softness and comfort.

This season, the British group was not just about traditional craftsmanship, with contemporary menswear from Far Afield, footwear from Harry’s London joining PS by Paul Smith, and 1 Like No Other. All UK brands take their ethical and sustainable obligations very seriously, with Tateossian celebrating its 35th year in business with replacement stones for bracelets such as K2 Azurite and Tourmalines, replacement silver chains and necklaces made of 100% recycled silver, and a limited edition of turquoise ammonites that are millions of years old.

Derek Rose brought back its silk printing for pajamas, thereby reducing its carbon footprint. Far Afield looked beyond UK shores for inspiration for its ‘Quiet Expedition’ collection, influenced by the breath-taking landscapes and rich cultural heritage of Iceland. The new Joshua Ellis 2024 scarf collection featured double-faced 90% wool/ 10% cashmere in classic tartans and checks.

Clearly, there’s never been a better time for US and Canadian buyers to buy British menswear and textiles. British exhibitors were delighted with the results of the show, with some too busy to take up UKFT’s invitation for afternoon Gin & Tonics. Indeed, British brands reported that buyers were shopping the show on the set-up day, making appointments as early as four hours ahead of the official opening time.

Bruce Schedler, Monique, Danielle, and the rest of the Chicago Collective team put on a first-class order-writing show and while UKFT was sorry to hear that Bruce has decided to retire later this year (we’ll believe it when we see it!), we have every confidence that Monique and Danielle’s stewardship of the show will continue to see it go from strength to strength.

Paul Alger is the International Business Director of the UK Fashion & Textile Association.