A FAMILY AFFAIR, 75 YEARS IN THE MAKING…

by Karen Alberg Grossman



“The Hart Schaffner Marx outerwear collection looks better than ever,” says DLS president and market maven Fred Derring. “There’s no one better than Gruner at producing affordable, fashion-right, quality garments with a recognized brand label.”

The family story dates back three generations. Born into a coat-maker family in Hamburg, Germany, Salo Gutfreund fled to Cracow Poland in 1938 to avoid Nazi persecution. There he met and married Regina Gruner. The couple miraculously survived the concentration camps and in 1949, purchased a former British parachute factory in Tel Aviv. They began manufacturing men’s raincoats to import into the U.S. The company flourished thanks to a focus on fashion, value, and exceptional customer service.

Fast-forward a generation. Salo’s only child Barbara Arfa joined him in the business, as eventually did her real estate attorney husband Harvey Arfa. Their daughter Caroline Arfa Massel is now Gruner president, recently joined by her attorney husband (and tech expert) Morris Massel. Harvey was co-president until 2022, and now serves as Chairman and Executive Advisor, still involved in almost everything!

Today, Gruner’s Hart Schaffner Marx outerwear collection ranges from light jackets at $295 up to 100% cashmere full-length topcoats at $1150. For Fall ’24, they’re introducing tech-inspired luxury layering pieces, retailing from $150-$295. Gruner also produces Ike Behar outerwear, private label outerwear for large chains, and boys’ outerwear under the Bradley Jons label. What’s more, they’re in the uniform business, bringing fashion to an industry that had been, until recently, very basic.

While much has changed for Gruner over 75 years, much has stayed the same. Caroline, Harvey, and the design team remain deeply dedicated to producing beautiful products, designed with regular input from customers. “We field customer communications day and night. When a customer calls, we are there for them,” Caroline states emphatically.

What’s changed? Caroline explains how technology has impacted both design and production. “We’ve incorporated skiwear technology into our core topcoats. Our rainwear has protective properties: wicking, waterproofing, antimicrobial, and breathability. Almost everything has stretch for comfort and lots of pockets!” Small details like incorporating reflective tape on a tailored raincoat to provide safety, speak to how they answer individual customer needs. Importantly, the company tries new things. One of their best-selling overcoats is made of an 860-gram knit cloth that provides exceptional comfort, even worn over a suit. A new offering: Polartec jackets that, compressed into a suitcase, come out looking fresh.

According to Morris, other changes derive from the consumer’s ability to rate purchases online. “Finally, the consumer has a voice. We can see what they’re interested in, what they like and dislike. These are the voices we’re constantly tracking.” Adds Caroline, “Every five-star review is amazing: a resounding vote of confidence. But every three-star review is something we can learn from.”

“Every five-star review is amazing: a resounding vote of confidence. But every three-star review is something we can learn from.” Caroline Massel, Gruner

This willingness to learn is a major attribute at Gruner. Says Caroline, “There are a handful of merchants out there who really know their customers and give us terrific advice. I learn so much from them.” She’s also learned much from her parents. “My mom (who passed away in 2015) had an amazing work ethic and taught me everything about production and attaining excellence. My dad taught me all about selling, licensing, marketing, and building relationships based on listening. He is widely admired for his intellect, his thoughtfulness, and his generosity. But I must say his best gift to me was introducing me to my husband…”

Harvey can’t help but sing the praises of his daughter. “Caroline went from Barnard to Wall Street to Gruner. (Unfortunately, we had to meet her Wall Street salary to lure her here…) Her skills in fashion design, conceptualization, production, and team leadership are unparalleled.” Predictably, Caroline transfers much of those accolades to her talented team, many of whom have been Gruner employees for decades.

Having managed to retain all employees while navigating the choppy waters of COVID, the family has launched a new collection to celebrate its 75th anniversary. “Our Gruner1949 collection incorporates the technology we’ve developed in outerwear into year-round textured knit sport coats,” Caroline notes with pride. “Every generation has had its challenges,” observes Harvey. “These challenges are met with change. Gruner looks forward to meeting the challenges and changes of the next generation.”

 

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