Brioni returned to Florence as part of Pitti Uomo on Monday to celebrate its 75th anniversary as the luxury Italian brand retraced the steps its legendary history.
Held in a beautiful Florentine Palazzo where the Visconti salons are cast in shadows, the collection was presented in various rooms filled with classical musicians serving the dual purpose of both models and performers.
For this collection, Brioni expanding its sartorial code staying true to its Roman roots that make for an attitude towards dressing that’s nonchalant, a bit absent-minded and masculine. The collection is conceived as a wardrobe meant to grow over time. Finely tailored, accurately detailed pieces can be layered and combined however one prefers. Every moment of a men’s life is covered, from business to leisure.
Shapes are precise, with Brioni’s defining softness and suppleness giving each item unmistakable quality. The Virgilio jacket has a wider lapel and a more structured shoulder, reassessing the essence of Brioni tailoring. Washed silk is used for soft suits, while double-faced constructions give luxurious ease to spazzolino coats and sports blousons. Deerskin is cut into a supple blazer. After dark, the goings get shiny, as jacquard and embroidered silks take the lead, faithful to founder’s Gaetano Savini fame as Mister Silk.
Materials are luxurious and tactile: cashmere, silk reps, baby alpaca, jacquard silk, barathea. The color palette is an amalgamation of warm neutrals, earthy browns, cream, tobacco, sand with accents of bright turquoise. Polished boots, lace-up boots, brogues, and velvet loafers complete the looks.