by Stephen Garner

For its spring/summer 2022 collection, Canali immerses itself in 1990s Los Angeles. References to the light at sunrise and sunset, the colors of the ocean and hills, and the multifaceted atmospheres of L.A.’s many neighborhoods are the inspiration behind this season.

As the light changes in intensity throughout the day, the colors chase the shadows that creep through the lush California greenery and large house windows along the hillside. The fresh light hues of the morning complement the warm tones of midday, which anticipate the pinkish glow of the sunset. The different pieces from this Canali collection merge with the city, creating new and unexpected combinations.

For the Italian luxury brand’s Exclusive collection, pieces introduce a laid-back elegance featuring refined details and precious materials. Leather garments are a key element this season: a refined taupe single-breasted buckskin blazer, a green suede jacket embellished with handmade Nappa leather threading, a suede aviator jacket with patch pockets, and buckskin espadrilles with stitched rope uppers complete the looks. “Dandy” tailored suits and jackets define the silhouettes of the season. This stylistic choice enhances the search for detail and conveys, through elements of the high sartorial tradition, the unique personality of the contemporary dandy. This also reflects in a range of bold garments such as anoraks, bomber jackets, and silk scarves, a cotton boat-neck sweater with an iconic structured stitch and real horn buttons, or wide-leg trousers with a drawstring waist.

Canali’s 1934 line features pieces inspired by the warm colors of the Los Angeles hills. We find garments and fabrics that originate from functional traditions such as denim and workwear and that over time have been stylistically reinterpreted to become true style icons of the male wardrobe. The trucker jackets come in a variety of versions: white denim, aqua- or tobacco-colored suede. In addition, the classic trucker jacket is reworked in white denim with patch pockets in tobacco suede. This color is also present on the tailored trousers with double pleats that match the soft lines of the jacket and indigo shirt with contrasting tobacco stitching. Moving on to knitwear, we find weaves of white, blue, and tobacco that create geometric patterns on garments made with braid stitch. Blue tones dominate the suits, blues ranging from intense denims to turquoise.

And, finally, Canali’s Black Edition collection sees pieces inspired by street art, music, and sports. The result is a mix of bright colors combined with bold, textured graphics. The hooded jacket features white graphics on a black background while the short-sleeved shirts with bowling collars are enhanced by maxi prints. Rubber details are present this season in the form of technical fabric outerwear, such as the black anorak with vertical pockets and shoulder opening, and in the stretch cotton jersey with fine flat rib knitting. Here we find garments with the same explosive energy in combination with fluorescent pink colors seen in ultra-light, brightly colored trainers.