by John Russel Jones

Dr. Martens and A-COLD-WALL* have created shoes that stand on the line between traditional workwear and subcultural style. This latest collaboration pushes the parameters of two of Dr. Martens most well-known silhouettes, designed by A-COLD-WALL* founder Samuel Ross. The designs are built on the shoe brand’s new double-height Bex Neoteric sole, featuring lightweight, two-part construction with deep cleating and an exaggerated side profile. With its sharp, deconstructed detailing, the Bex Neoteric sole recalls the Brutalist architecture to which A-COLD-WALL* often nods — and forms the perfect foundation to test the engineering limits of classic Dr. Martens footwear.

The Rikard 8-eye boot and Rikard 3-eye shoe retain the pointed, angular features seen in previous collaborations — crafted with black Smooth leather. Enclosed ghillie lacing across both silhouettes creates a refined, elevated profile that contrasts with Dr. Marten’s origins in uniforms and workwear. Reflective panels with A-COLD-WALL* branding add an embedded functionality. Both silhouettes are finished with signature yellow welt stitching and a black and yellow AirWair heel loop. Studied and analytical — still quintessentially DM’s.