FAMILY MATTERS: A CUSTOM SHIRT COMPETITION WITH A HAPPY ENDING

Family businesses are never easy, as the Gamberts, third-generation custom shirt makers, will testify. As Mitch Gambert explains it, “My grandfather founded his custom shirt business in 1933 but my cousin Skip and I ended up competitors with separate businesses. I’d describe our relationship over the years as cordial. Lukewarm.”

And then came the pandemic. “Beginning with the shutdowns in March 2020, we started talking. Skip’s building was sold and was facing demolition. We knew the pandemic would wreak havoc on both businesses and why should two Gamberts go down when there’d be more gas in the tank if we merged. So, we bounced around ideas and developed a strategy. Skip ran a successful business for many years and had wonderful suggestions. Best of all, we developed an amazing relationship.”

Bottom line: Skip (65) is now officially retired and Mitch (47) is running the combined companies, with a little help from his parents, Mel and Lorraine Gambert. “They’re both actively involved in the day-to-day business here. Even though I’m trying to kick them out, they keep coming back!”

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The newly merged custom/made-to-measure shirt business has more than 300 retail accounts. Says Mitch, “We stock more than 1500 fabrics, from basic cottons to flannels to patterns with skulls and crossbones (that keep selling!) We have an unrivaled sport shirt collection and we also do private RTW production for brands and small production runs for private label. The custom shirt business is more relevant than ever for two main reasons: for retailers, there’s no inventory; for guys, they still need to look good on Zoom, even if they’re wearing track shorts with their custom shirts.”

Mitch notes that the business (based in Newark, New Jersey) is now 65-70 percent sport shirts, many of which are statement pieces (florals, bold checks, brushed melange fabrics) vs. 30-35 percent dress shirts, mostly blues and whites. Wholesale prices range from $70-$200 and shirts can be ordered with either a Mel Gambert or store label. During the imposed shutdown, Mitch was able to reopen with 20 operators making masks, which has evolved into a sizable business in itself.

Men buy custom shirts for four reasons, Mitch explains. “They want an exact fit, they want customized details (a button-down collar with French cuffs), they want specific fabrics or fancy buttons, they want to correct imperfections like a low shoulder. We have retailers who designate 300 square feet in a 3,000 square-foot store and do tremendous volume. With custom, you never have to say no.”