GUEST EDITORIAL: WHAT’S NEEDED NOW

In a nutshell, we’re all sick and tired of being sick and tired. We’re living through a calamity we could not have dreamed up 12 months ago. 

So, what’s my crystal ball? The vaccines now being distributed put us on track to contain and eventually control the virus. When people can come and go without fear, good things will happen. Restaurants, bars, theaters, travel, hotels, and sporting events will resume, creating a desire to look good. Weddings, bar mitzvahs, and parties will create demand for dress-up apparel. Romance will switch from virtual to actual so people of all ages will want to look their best to attract someone special.

For sure there will be lots of pent-up demand by fall ‘21, and smart merchants will feature garments that are new and special. The “need” part of shopping is available from many suppliers on a count and fill basis. The challenge is the “gotta have it” factor. Special store events, trunk shows, and creative selling promotions will continue to be important but success requires a major rethink, an open mind, and willingness to remerchandise and embrace change. All easier said than done, but in talking with merchants who’ve experimented with new ideas, their sales results have been better than the average 50 percent declines.

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Tailored clothing is the biggest challenge so why not make it as casual and comfortable as sportswear. This can mean functional pants with drawstring or elastic waists. Soft jackets garment-dyed or stone-washed. Suit components that can be worn individually or together. Knit sportcoats that are soft yet structured. Felted shirt-make knits in cashmere. Chore jackets in washed effect technical canvas or plush wide wale corduroy. Tailored tech outerwear, e.g. hoodie long coats or hybrid jackets that work as outerwear or as sportcoats.  Buyers need to be courageous and think outside their comfort zones. We’ve, or at least I’ve, lived through periods where Nehru, Edwardian, and leisure suits drove the tailored business. Experimentation is part of being a merchant.

Better sportswear continues to be a bright spot but requires a carefully studied mix. Knits should be merchandised in a thoughtful and expanded way: flat knits will compensate for the sagging cut and sewn business. There’s the new polo, the overstitched crew, and V. Cashmere in updated classics with felted effects. Knitted eco-down outerwear is another comer that can offset losses in other categories. Pants also require a rethink.  While casual pants and jeans will continue, multi-functional models that are casual, technical, and detailed in a relaxed way look cooler than sweats and better than Gap. Also think textured cottons that have a wool look, lots of stretch, and neat patterns for variety. Sportshirts remain a challenge, so step it up with soft prints, soft washes, denim and chambray shirts with snap details and yoke treatments.

As the saying goes, “insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result.” Let’s change it up and drive new results. I believe fall ‘21 will be a big step toward a new and ultimately profitable normal.

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Belvest