How the Undarted Sport Coat Became the Go-to Tailoring Move for Spring
Apr 07, 2022
Wade deep enough into the tailoring weeds and you’re bound to face the question “darted or undarted?” The “darts” in question are an omnipresent yet easy-to-miss feature included on most modern sport coats and suit jackets: a thin line on either side that runs from chest to hip indicating where fabric has been removed to suppress the waist and add shape.
Historically, the choice to add darts or leave a jacket undarted has broken down along familiar lines. British and European tailors added darts to help achieve a masculine hourglass shape, while American makers like Brooks Brothers and J. Press left their wares dartless for a fuller fit that gave rise to the term “sack suit.” Read more at Robb Report.
The function of a dart is to add fullness above it, not to make the area parallel to it smaller. The author is misinformed.